@pgtips I took a pic of the breathers today. The breather outbid the case goes up and into the word plug type thing on the inlet manifold, the other one is the one that goes to the inlet track just after the filter. does that make sense?
Exhaust is in and done. Had to adjust the position of the cooling pipes to fit the back box in. All sorted now though. Much quieter on tickover and flows very nicely when driving!!
Hi Matt, look a nice clean install, might be interested if the price is right?? I came on to pick your brains(again!!) I've got the same install as you with the forester 2.0 n/a followed you with the air intake I've got the reversed manifold from rjes, but I'm showing two error codes 26 and 54, Nick Tune thinks it's related to the air box wondering if you had anything similar. Cheers. Mike
Yes I saw your post. To have a similar engine to mine. You need to check the inlet air sensor. It goes in the back of the air box in the original car. I relocated mine into the inlet manifold. There are some pics earlier in this thread of what it looks like
Cheers Matt will have to see if I can find the sensor thought I'd seen yours but wasn't to sure what I was looking for will check tomorrow thanks again
£575 from Brett at every exhaust part ltd. I'll get more details as he said he will make more now he knows it works on mine.
Hi Matt, found the wiring loom connector it had dropped down the back of the engine, need to speak to Stef at MAC VW hopefully he will have the sensor. Will let you know the results. Many thanks once again.
Are you sure the sensor isn't in there and it's just not connected? Might be worth checking with rjes as well, If he did the loom.
Hi Pkrboo, on your fuel breather pipe did you tap back into the VW pipe that runs around the roof of the engine bay (I'm ordering hoses) and for the 38mm run to the rad, what do you use for that?, I had planned stainless on the longer straight (pressure/weight etc) but rerouting around the engine mount and the exhaust might be tricky? and what size T piece here to your expansion tank, what sizes did you get for those (both if poss ) Ive got the same expansion tank but be good to check sizes. Cheers, PG
VW original fuel breather pipe is just venting to air at the moment. the subaru stuff on the engine is blocked off an not needed really. I used T25 plastic water pipes cut down into 4 pieces, I warmed the ends up and molded a lip onto them, they fit perfectly and have bends etc in them ready to fit over and round etc etc. bottom Tee piece is from Auto silicon hoses and is 38 x 38 x 25 and then an Auto silicon hoses reducer down to 16mm ID and a 16mm piece of alloy pipe to join it to 16mm hose. make sense? top tee piece is from car builder solutions with a screw in barb. this is just 8mm hose (actually used some spare fuel pipe) up to the top of the bottle. ill try and find some links Car builder solutions part numbers for the top Tee: Straight Brass 8mm Hosetail 1/8 NPT SKU: HT188: https://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/straight-brass-8mm-hosetail-18-npt In-Line Temp Sender Housing/Air Bleed/Drain 38mm SKU: INT38: https://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/in-line-temp-sender-housingair-bleeddrain-38mm AutoSiliconhoses.com 38mm - 1 1/2" - Silicone Polyester Reinforced Hose - 1 Metre Length - Select Colour Colour Black P SSH 038 K: http://www.autosiliconehoses.com/silicone-polyester-reinforced-hose-38mm-choose-from-15-colours.html Alloy T Piece Joiner - Polished Alloy T Connector - Choose Your Size Outer Diameter 38mm ATP 038: http://www.autosiliconehoses.com/al...ished-alloy-t-connector-choose-your-size.html Silicone Polyester Reinforced Hose - Straight Reducer - 25mm to 16mm - 15 Colours Colour Black: http://www.autosiliconehoses.com/si...straight-reducer-25mm-to-16mm-15-colours.html 16mm - Custom Alloy Straight Hose Joiner - Choose Your Length - Beaded Length 100mm AHJ 100 016: http://www.autosiliconehoses.com/cu...6mm-choose-your-length-end-bead-optional.html
Make a copy before @pkrboo starts charging..... Received some bits for mine today, no got a flywheel/bolts/acc cable/ex flanges/drive belt/loom, just need to sort an £84 refund for the clutch kit that the ebay seller wont send or even respond or acknowledge they dont have it/made a mistake etc. (it had to be too good to be true!)
This is where i'm starting to get out of my depth/need to learn How come it can be blocked, won't that affect it in any way?. Would I be ok tapping it into my exisiting VW breather that runs around the engine 'roof' ? Would that be the 'hard' straights (& bends), I don't have T25 stuff to hand but following your links earlier the alloy T connectors that AFS do come in several sizes/lengths and bends and are actually better priced than stainless so these should be ok .. shouldn't they.? Last Q, the inline temp send housing/bleed/drain is there a best place to put it , I guess the water pump run is the most practical. And did you fit a sender to the housing. Working through the list today and have to say again thanks for sharing, I had no idea what I needed so beer on me sometime *crap emoji but all they've got !! PG
the fuel tank vents into the engine so if you dont vent the tank into the engine you dont need the subaru vent stuff. i am venting the roof stuff to air at the moment, i am thinking about tapping into the fuel filler hose but tbh it barely vents much at all really. yes the hard straights and bends were perfect to get round to the rad, pics of the T25 pipes in this thread somewhere. Page 15 has some pics inline temp sender housing was just to screw the barb into for the return to the coolant tank. goes inline just after the outlet from the top of the engine block(ill do pics later.) no need for an separate temp sensor, just use the signal that comes form the Subaru ECU, who has done your wiring harness?