G'day all. been working on the wiring by cheating bought 3 harnesses of WISH cheap easy loom set up the fuse box fits perfectly into ashtray hole no laying under dash witha torch. the relay fitting slide off to be remote mounted on the drop down relay board. the wires are at least 2 metres long
Manifold modifications to rectify coolant flow. i have reversed the manifold & opened up the waterjacket openings on the rear of the manifiold. this is to get flow through the heads & out the back. so there is water flowing straight instead of u turn at the rear ot the heads where the manifold is blancked off
I started to assemble the wiring looms 3sperate units 1 lights 2 body for fridge house lights etc engine drive train taillight & transmission temp gauge wires lights in heavy folded bases The 14cux computer for engine & electric waterpump controller live in the console I will be covering console with black leather to match the dash. the wires run through grommets in the engine cover as well. the console fits between the front sets& is sitting higher than in the car the dash will be cover top to bottom with black leather. I have turnedthe glove box lid over so it opens down to make looking at relays fuses is easier then with it in standard position I have tou cut up a rusty dash to cut the the tabs off & fit them on the bottom position. the 4 gauges on top are oil temp for L to R rear diff transfercase gearbox front diff. Plus an engine oiltamp in the cluster the relays in the glovebox apature are handbrake hilo beam driving lights dash ignition & fuse box. The button on the RH side of dash is starter
G'day all. finally dug into the engine loom. took me 3 days solid to sort with having to work off 2 pages in the Haynes Manual. they chaged wire colours from page to page even down to moving location on the loom of the Inertia switch. Damn frustrating. before after
starte to assemble the front wheel drive. Now to set the adjusters for full drop. I hope it maintains this height. For any land rover people may recognise my steps. very rare to buy I got them off a mate.
I don't need anymore if the engine was in the original rear position i would have put some in the bay for when I worked on the engine.
there are 4 oil temp gauges rear diff transfercase gearbox engine front diff. amps for both batteries. engine temp I would like a analogue clock but none available might have to get my old smiths unit refaced.
G'day Surfari correct a pomm offered me 200 quid for them. I got them of a very good mate & couldn't sell them had he only had 2 set's one for his forward control. & he gave me his spare set for the kombi
Don't tell anyone on here, but I'm also into LandRovers. I spent an amazing couple of months in the outback in mine. The sort of trip your 4WD bay would be great for (if you can find enough petrol stations). Keep up the great work, I love projects like this (to follow rather than do!)
Finally have it back on 4 wheels sadly the new torsion bars didn't hold it up as much as i thought it would, time to modify the arches. Due to tyre size i want run I have to go a bit further than the factory did on the mule for the syncro. . starting to mod it I bought new outer skins to use. I cut them in the centre of the arch. them cut where they were going to fit up the rear edge onto sliding door pillar. clearance on the front of arch now clearance on the rear of tyre compared to 1st pic
I put an aluminium rod from the diff centre to the outer CV joint to check clearance on the steering plenty of room the shaft fits it's out of a mitsubishi Magna
finished the mods on the right hand side bit of filler. I also cut out the replacement panel for the rear of the left side wheel arch simple plate I bent the fill for the curve the wrong way I have to rebend it before i can weld it up