What you're supposed to do is get everything right then drive it. That includes leaks of every kind. On that subject, I'm sure you remembered to reconnect the brake servo vacuum pipe under the van?
Thankfully it makes a horrid noise if it's not plumbed in. I know I was supposed to wait but it was to tempting I'm a rebel Without a Cause. I'm chuffed it drove beautifully. Thank you so much everyone, I honestly would never have got it working again without you lots. I means so much the time and advise you've all given me
Haha, stop trying to sign off, you're not there yet. Note the steady idle speed. They can sound quieter than this but TBH this fairly typical.
Well that video is just a show off no one needs to run that well that engine seal makes all the difference I hear they take off at least 10 dbs haha
See what happens when you fix the exhaust leak(s). If the idle speed is still fluctuating so much you still haven't finished but all the time you get closer. I'd have tackled it differently. I know from experience that some thing must be correct before setting others. Valve adjustment. Ignition timing. All inlet, exhaust and vacuum hose leaks. Only then would I mess with the FI or Carb settings.
Can anyone help point me in the direction of a oil temperature sensor and pressure I have space on my dash for them and would ideally like to monitor them.
VDO are the usual choice. A dual pressure/low oil pressure light sender is the usual choice. Temp has a choice of sender type and location. Dipstick (yuck) or various sump type. You'll wish you'd though of this earlier, before you put the oil in.
Honestly wish I had never touched the afm that's my biggest regret. But I'm really pleased it's starting off the key without having to push the acceleration pedal
Well I've become very quick at changing oil now bit more on the road no one will notice( I feel so bad I am going to have to clean it up) I think I'll go for a sump one I want to take the broken oil heater out. I just want to fill all the gauges on my dash and the light ones dont work
What you have to look forward to is that none of this should ever need adjusting again. Electronic ignition, hydraulic tappets, Fuel injection - it's the future!
Yeah it's called a Dakota digital I think its ment for hot rods, it is a remnant of its days of being a sony Xplod van. I cant wait tongues the 0 to 60 function
You are right everyone I should drive down to devon for a night or two *edit* So when getting the van ready the heavens decided to open then I go to cook some food and I've run out of gas. I am going inside and sulking haha
Should be good to then depending on model.. just some senders and wires and you're good to go!.. easiest temp sender fix for me was a m14 to m10 boss in the oil drain plug.. and you can screw the pressure sender straight in to the existing. Sent from my SM-T580 using Tapatalk
For your oil temperature gauge, here is a really good informative thread on the subject: https://www.thelatebay.com/index.ph...ge-with-taco-plate-adaptor.52254/#post-927559
It depends on what your Dakota digital is expecting as a sender really.. I'd check their info first as they might want a specific range I know the Audi vdo gauges I used need a 0 -170° sender not the 150° sender most places sell.. you can even get senders in an M14 thread to save getting a boss or do the taco plate thing like above.. From a quick look I think they expect you to get their senders if you have the input box at the back to wire them in to... Sent from my SM-T580 using Tapatalk