Anything else worth changing while I’m there...

putting a new clutch in the van this weekend, I’ve got new engine mount bolts on the way, engine bay seal foam and the clutch kit&bolts, but is there anything else worth swapping whilst I’m in there?

I’m on a tight timescale (always a good start..) and am just doing the essentials to get it back up and running for now, but don’t want to pass up a quick win whilst it’s all apart!

(I know it’s a ‘how longs a piece of string’ type question as I won’t know what’s nackered until the day, but I’m thinking of obvious things that might be generally beneficial)

 

Crank seal and flywheel o ring, get a spare spigot bearing just in case
Edit, remember a clutch alignment tool

 

Good shout!!!

 

.

 

I didn’t think type4 clutches needed the tool? Probably misread that though!

 

Only about 15 inches...

Got a new cable already which is going on in advance so will set it once the new clutch is in.

 

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/171501016833
It's shorter than the more commonly available type 1 offering

https://www.vwheritage.com/ac0005335-clutch-alignment-tool-1700-2000cc-vw-spare

 

Ideal, cheers bud

 

Have you checked the fuel filler pipe and tank breathers before?

If not then it may be wise to order replacements
A good dose of cavity wax in the fuel tank area and over the rear arch tubs is also a good idea whilst you have easy access

 

Bang some new fuel hoses on it while your at it. Seem to perish very quickly.

 

Fuel hoses were done about 4 weeks ago .

 

If t’were me, I’d whip the tank out.

 

I would swap Boris Johnson for a pack of rabid dogs as they are safer...

 

Personally I'd look at re-fixing the Russian cups and greasing the hydrocoptic marzlevanes.

Sounds like you've got it mostly covered, I'd take a look over the engine and tinware, check for any oil leaks etc. and maybe think about a lick of paint if necessary. There's not a huge amount of service stuff that requires the engine and gearbox to be seperated... Shift bushes maybe?

 

Jesus wept, that was a bugger of a job! Me and a mate started at 8 yesterday morning and stopped about 9:30 last night!

Took a good 3 hours to get the engine out due to seized everything’s and no space, but took 6 hours to get it back in - the bell housing studs were about 3mm short of being through the box for 2 hours of that!! The Illegitimate child just would not slot home. All of a sudden, it just gave in and went. Everything was aligned perfectly, it was just a combination of my drive being on a slope the jack wheel digging into the tarmac and not sliding!

The worst part - the old clutch wasn’t too bad . Pressure plate had some raised spots and release bearing was a bit rattly, so worthwhile doing anyway.

The tinware that we could get off is still off so that’s being de-rusted and sprayed today and we found the brake boost hose was held on with silicone so removed it and will be sorting that today too, but all told, a happy result!

Just 4 bolts, my arse

 

Replace ALL the fuel breather hose connections. Don't forget the sneaky one up behind the spare wheel well. Take the LH light cluster out to get to this tricky little blighter.

Check out the fuel filler pipe. Whilst the tank is out. replace the bit of rubbish wadding under the tank with a bit of closed cell (camping mat) material. Check the gauze in the fuel tank filler is clean. Replace the fuel hose with bio ethanol pipe (try advanced fluid solutions) for this one.

 

I had similar removing my engine. It took us two days jacking up that bit, propping that bit, grunting and groaning. We ended up sawing through the stud and I bought a new pair. VW Heritage stock them. When the engine eventually goes back in I'll feed the studs in afterwards through the gearbox housing using the double nut trick

 

Thats the trouble with a LB with an early or split its a 20 min job

 

If you turn the crank a tiny bit when its stuck just short of going in it sometimes just pops in on the clutch splines..or go Incredible Hulk and try to shake it off the axle stands with the exhaust pipes near the heads. Full body weight... but make sure the jack is solidly under there because you can also shake it off the jack...