Back on with the "recirculated heat for a bus" idea...

Just been perusing the web for info on the stock air cleaner/pre-heat set-up for 1600 and stumbled on another thread about recirculated heat systems for buses.
One guy blocked off the ducts from the stock doghouse and fitted a Type 4 Blower in the engine bay...ducted up through the rear air intake and stuck a vent half way up the rear quarter panel. This was for the intake (suction) side. The outlet (or blower) side of the fan ducted into the heat exchanger, and thence through the standard heater system with an inline bilge blower mounted ahead of the Y splitter (he only used on heat exchanger for some reason)

He claimed this was a vast improvement on the standard 1600 set-up.

Any thoughts...?

My take on this would be to duct recirculated air to both exchangers but also fit a flap valve somewhere between the inside vent and the Type 4 Fan, to allow cold, fresh air to mixed accordingly...

What say you TLBers?

 

I have an old Volkswagen repair and restoration manual that has the plans for doing that in there. I will scan in the pages for you if you like?

 

Just wondering if the intake section would transmit engine noise back into the rear of the bus.

 

be good to see that ,ive often thought about taking two separate smaller pipes , this would give you more velocity and less heat loss especially using pre lagged pipe /ducts also you could put more heat to driver or vicer versa if needed ? recirc is good but you will waste alot of fan power i would have thought.

 

Given that the standard system in good shape with original exchangers works well, why bother with stuff like that?

 

Hey @baybirmingham ...pretty sure folk on here would be interested to read it.

Possibly, but any induction noise from the fan would be at the back of the bus, so maybe not such an issue...fairly straightforward job to reduce it I would've thought.

in the original thread, he blanked off the air outlets in the doghouse that normally duct air to the exchangers...the 'squirrel fan' was used as a replacement source of blown air.

 

i like bothering

 

Yup og heat exchangers and a leak free system actually gets very warm

 

There's probably a more straightforward way to introduce pre-heated cabin air into the stock system, but thought this particular bodge was quite neat

 

just to clarify....my heater system works very well....I've replaced the main tube with a fully insulated , shrink-wrapped pipe, fitted an inline blower, and nickel plated the heat exchangers before having them powder coated....there isn't a leak anywhere in the entire system...so yes the 'standard' set up works well with some additional modifications. But it isn't as good as it can be IMO

 

Have you never faffed?

Some people are born to faff, others have faffing thrust upon them

 

trubble with the system imo is that it only works well when flying along .

 

Good excuse next time you get pulled over...."Sorry Officer...I was just trying to keep warm"

 

Agree, I often have to open the vents in mine as it gets too hot with the heat on. Don't understand this buses don't have heating thing

 

maybe tell that to the passengers in the back, wrapped in blankets, while you sit there in a Hawaii shirt a bermuda shorts

 

This is the truth of the matter, all the heat is generated by the exhaust - the harder you drive it the warmer you get.

I fitted up the heating for a van with a T25 engine and exchangers. the fan housing didn't have outlets to blow into the heat exchangers, but the OG fan I got for it blew a gale through the van, so I say yes - you don't need the output from the cooling fan. Maybe you can suck air out from inside RR bed cupboard past the tank.

 

but also is the fan not going faster , so if idling the exhaust is still hot but the fan is not pushing the hot air forward with enough velocity so if you reduced the size of the pipes to the front wouldnt you get same heat /more velocity with less fan speed ??

 

Both, fan going faster and engine working harder. You're the HVAC man, you need more power to blow same volume of air down thinner pipe, that's why HV ducting above false ceilings is so big?

You mean less, hotter, faster air?

 

Found it!!!!! Sorry - cant scan at the moment!