hello people. One of my ongoing will sort one day projects for my camper is to upgrade the camping electrics on my camper (fit a propex heater that runs from my underslung lpg tank is another). But back to the electrics. I have a 1975 campmobile delux (Berlin) westfalia from California that still has the USA spec 110v input. For years now I’ve plugged a lead into the campsite put it in a gap on the drivers side window into a step down transformer back out the window and into the side of my van! Less than ideal but it’s worked! Then 110v runs into the original transformer that turns it into 12v to run my fridge. There is also two 110v power points that I run a fan heater from the USA from. There is trip switch. I want to be able to plug 240 v straight into the side of the van without my in and out of the window malarkey. The wiring looks beefy enough to take 240 v so I was thinking of fitting a small but expensive RS transformer under the seat to step it down to 110v in a more discreet way and then keep it USA spec from there. I would also fit an rds? Or whatever it’s called tripswith module thingy. I would like to keep the metal flap original on the side of the van. Any positive advice really appreciated. Thanks so much P.
I'd replace all your wiring for 240V spec stuff, including the external socket. Fridge as well for the long term. Yes, best to have an RCD and appropriate circuit breaker.
Thanks for that guys. Ahh yes rcd that's what I meant. I know ur probably right. Thanks for the rickyroo tip too. Is he the one who has a beige westy for sale at the mo?
I replaced the metal flap and socket with a white plastic one. It was the same size so no cutting req. Also you could have a surface mount socket in the engine bay and keep the metal socket for show. Make sure you get a double pole rcd unit. Not many people do them. Got mine from Xtreme Van. There have been a few threads on here.
I'm guessing you won't want to get rid of the fridge, but does it really run off 12V after stepping down from 110V? There were a few versions of these - presumably it's the one with a top opening lid. Mine is a German spec one with 220V and 12V and also gas. There are two separate heater elements. The 12V section is only for keeping it cool when driving on mine, but if you're using the 12V side when camped, then you might as well dispense with the 220 to 110V transformer and step down directly 220 to 12V. It's possible you've still got a 110V element though. It doesn't look too complicated to swap the element though I've no idea if they are obtainable.
As @andyv points out it may be easier to get a big Ctek and run the bus and fridge off 12 volts from hookup and heat off 240V rather than a transformer as there is a lot less size and weight in transformers in a switchmode power supply like the Ctek than a big old 50Hz mains transformer capable of running a heater.
A lot of food for thought here. Thanks very much. As far as I know the German spec dometic absorption fridges worked from 220v and 12v but the USA spec were 12v stepped down from 110v ( I think it was frank at westfalia bus parts that told me this). It’s definitely 2 way not three way. It’s got a monster of a transformer under the seat like something from 1970’s Dr Who. I’ll look into the ctek option. Thanks again everyone.
My 78 Berlin is from the US. The fridge runs off 12volts only. I dumped all the US stuff, including the 110 transformer. I now run the fridge from the leasure battery which is charged from a heavy duty RAC smart battery charger which is powered by 240volts via my Extreme Van fuse box .
Cheers vinny boy. I was just posting these photos when I received yours. I’ll take a really good at at these. Thanks mate. P.
I never bother turning the fridge on when driving or not hooked up because it uses too much power but it keeps stuff cool for hours especially if you pack a couple of ice packs. It’s amazing how much stuff (cans of beer) you can squeeze in.
That answers an interesting question I’d wondered about. My 12v circuit isn’t wired through the control knob, hence no thermostat, unlike yours. Only the 220v section has any adjustment.
Two questions: Vinnyboy with your set up, does it ask t0o much of the battery do you think? I know it's constantly being charged but have you noticed its life being shortened at all or has it been ok? Also to Snotty if I replace the whole lot for 240v input would it affect the control panel (you know the thing that looks like a zig unit but isn't). IE I'm not sure if that's wired to the 110v side of things or 12v side of things? If it's the former I don't suddenly want to wack in 240v and blow it up. Anyone know? Ta P.
Ref the battery, because of the job I'm in I've got a supply of good used batteries for free. I've never had a proper leasure battery. I normally get a couple of years out of these. I don't think you'll have an issue.
If it's just a battery meter, likely it's just connected to the 12V side. I can't think what it would be doing on the mains side. Only way to know is to see what it's connected to. Post a pic.
