Can't fully remember but pretty sure it's only 12 volts at the panel. You switch between 12v from the battery or 12v from the big American transformer under the seat. Mains is only from the outside socket to the transformer.
I've kept my control panel because I like the look of it but the only use it has is to turn the fridge on/off.
@ginger ninja , The simplest, although not necessarily the best, thing you can do if you want to replace the US stuff is to take out the 110ac to 12v dc transformer that's under the seat. Chuck it in the bin and replace it for one of these ebay caravan charger that gives you a 230 input from the hook up and dc out for the fridge/power management panel by the ash tray and onto the battery. The loom is quite easy to understand once you trace it from the panel to the transformer and the leisure battery. By pass the US inlet hook-up socket on the side of the van and replace it with a euro spec blue camping socket somewhere under the van or in the engine bay. The US socket is only rated for 15amps at 125 volts so is not up to our spec in the uk or Europe. It's probably dangerous to use to be fair. Take out the metal box and single core wiring to those useless US sockets as well. Replace all the single core with multi stand cable rated correctly. Replace the US sockets with UK spec. items. It's all old and safety has come on in leaps since the mid 70's The big fuse in the metal socket box is not ideal, safe or compliant with what is required in new builds these days. HOWEVER... Better for you and your family and others camping near your van or those that may just happen to lean on your van would be to get a consumer unit with the double pole breakers in a dedicated leisure kit from a specialist and have it done properly. There is loads of info on here ref the regs and best practice but when it all comes down to it it is your choice. I did our Campmobile Deluxe initially with one of those chargers just to get it rolling into campsites and to be able to use the fridge on hook-up. As soon as I could we changed it all to modern rated sockets, double pole mcb's, chassis bonding, a 10 amp ctek and new wiring plus an external socket rated for the correct euro voltage and amps. If you're not 100% sure of how it all works then get a person in who is qualified in the relevant leisure electric wiring and who is familiar with best practise and regulations btw if you do want to use the US flap with a US socket then here is how I did it. Chip page 4 post 61 It was a faff and it does mean your plug is your plug in that the hook-up cable becomes specific to the van. If the receptacle breaks, you'd better have a spare or be prepared to convert to blue plugs. Page 13 shows the wiring junctions and what I did with the fridge...good luck
To theBusmonkey Thank you very much for all this, taking the time and effort for all that info and pointing me in the right direction to previous threads. I will read it all thoroughly this weekend. I know deep down that you are right. So I think this is the way to go. I also think that I will sacrifice originality by replacing the external flap with something generic, flush mounted and suitable for UK/Euro camping probably from JK. I just hope i don't have to cut too much metal out to make it fit! You mentioned a 10 amp ctek. So I'm guessing you by passed the old charging/city power/fridge on/off control panel thingy. Am I right? Cheers to everyone for all this by the way. P.
Just re read this vinnyboy. Which flap did you use/where was it from as i would rather not get the grinder out in the middle of a shinny panel! Cheers P.
No, its a champagne edition (thread is called "poo bus" or something similar). He sold the bus some time back and isnt' on the forum any more but i think his thread is still there.
Yeah we were relaminating the interior so deleted the panel. A bit sad in some respects as it looses the originality but we were never going to show the bus, just use it safely. If you look at that chip page I referred to above (13) then you can see the fridge is just switched by that little rocker switch. It's wired into a port on the auxiliary fuse box that takes its feed from the leisure battery. That keeps it all safe and simple. Bear in mind the fridge will draw about 8.5 amps on full chill down (into the element in the tube underneath all the insulated pipe work) so any switches and wiring you use must be able to handle the current without exploding into flames haha
Cheers chaps. I’ve got a much a better handle on it now. I hope I can be of equal help to you some day. Something tells me that it’s unlikely though, but you never know! All the best P.
Could you put up a picture of the power inlet as 240V versions of the American Edison 117V are available if somewhat obscure. The wiring would have to be replaced as it is unlikely to be rated for 240V Cheers Andy
Make sure whatever you buy from JK complies to the regulation - I doubt if there is anyone there that actually knows what the regulations are. These guys get it right http://www.xtremevan.co.uk/
I've just got an Extreme Van kit, it comes with a DP RCCB and 6 and 10 amp SP MCBs, also telling me it's not suitable for travelling in Europe. I thought the regulations stated DP MCBs were required?
Hello Getting closer now! I’ve added a little 12v outlet from my leisure battery which works great. So now for the big one. Xtreme van told me they use a double pole domestic rcd which doesn’t have an mcb. They also said it was definitely ok for European use. They didn’t sell a ctek but they have their own kind of equivalent called an xt120 which is £77. Does anyone have any thoughts or experience of these or the xtreme van kit? Also if anyone has replaced a USA spec flush mount mains inlet flap for a new British one can you let me know the details as the ones on eBay, jk and towsure etc don’t have the right dimensions for the over all surface and I don’t want to leave the old marks and holes on show. Cheers Paul.
Not for a while but have fitted 20 is of there consumer units in the past and they were fine. I used the ctex the 5 or 7 depending on budget I found amazon cheep. The 16amp socket I used this one as its got a flap https://www.camping-online.co.uk/ma...MIs8jlxa-v2gIVEDPTCh2ZPAlZEAkYCSABEgKhfvD_BwE 13amp sockets normal domestic ones of Cbe ones if budget allowed https://www.caravanstuff4u.co.uk/159-caravan-cbe-electrical-sockets If you want to spend more money you can get a nice battery to battery charger that also does solar like this one and the same as I have in my van https://www.ctek.com/products/on-board/20a-off-grid
Having actually opened the consumer unit from Extreme Van, it does look like it meets the requirements and uses DP MCBs, just the info sheet with it wasn't clear to me. Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk