So I've had the van back from the restorers (he wasn't doing anything with the engine) and had it out during the week for a short run and it worked fine. On saturday I took it through to the in-laws and when out the van started to stall when coming up to junctions. Got back home and decided to put the battery on charge and noticed it had a loose connection so thought it might have been that causing the issue (i'm not mechanical and this is going to be a big learning curve for me). Today i got the van back out and took it for a spin to my mates and i was chatting to him about the problem, I started the van and it was idling away nicely for about ten minutes, but when i put my foot on the brake the engine died - i tried this a few times to make sure. I went down to the bottom of the street to turn around and the engine cut out again, I restarted and went on my way - for less than 200 yards until the engine cut out again and from then on whenever I tried to get it going it would start after a few attempts and giving it some gas but then wouldn't idle at all and just cut out. The van hasn't been run other than being moved around the restorers yard until i've come to use it, can anyone suggest to a total novice what might be causing it? Apologies for the essay but wanted to give the full picture, not a great start to my first stint owning a VW :-(
If you've got a stock Solex carburettor, make sure the lead hasn't dropped off the idle cutoff valve (cylinder thing on the LHS of the carb).
As said the brake servo leak is worth checking but what if any work has been done on the fuel lines/tank/ filter?
Start with the easy stuff . Get it running and spray carb cleaner over all the sections that are carb related manifold rubber boots, manifold/head joints and carb base don't go mad with it thou. If the revs pick up you have an air leak easy fix.. After a good run on tick over is the coil red hot? Could be faulty. Fuel cut off solenoid working ok? Little tin with a wire on the end screwed into the carb body. Before you get all involved have a good look and make sure no obvious leads have fell off. Could be crap in the carb Oh yeah sparks, fuel and spanners can be good fun ............but
Its a 1600 engine, all the fuel lines were replaced when the engine was put back in - appreciate you all pointing a learner in the right direction, i'd love to get it fixed myself (if only to prove my dad wrong who reckons i'll never be mechanically minded)
id look at the vacuum lines off the servo, maybe one was knocked by the garage and either came off or was damaged. see my thread below about servos, you will see i had the same issue when testing yesterday.
Ok I've had a look at the hoses and the carb, the hose directly from the servo isn't in bad nick (although on my list to replace) and the other is new. I've nipped up the clamps and the carb bolts but still having the same problem. It occurred to me the problem started the day after I'd brimmed the tank for the first time since the restore and I'm wondering if the crud in the fuel filter might be causing the symptoms? My next question is can I buy one over the counter from a motor factors like Andrew Page and is it an easy job to change out (I noticed it's just the two clamps but is anything else involved in the process) ?
Very east to do you can buy cheap clamps that just nip the feul line closed but don't damage the pipes. Filters can be got anywhere fram are a top brand too . It won't hurt to swap that over but it should stop the crap going past it anyway Good luck
An easy but important one that has helped me out... Clean well the battery earth connection. Make sure it's good metal to metal.
That filter does look very filthy. Which pipe is coming from the tank? Left of the picture or right? The idle circuit on solexes does seem to get bunged up fairly easily. You can remove the pilot jet and clean it out. It's just a bass screw on the carb. http://tech.bentleypublishers.com/servlet/JiveServlet/download/51-35105-340318-6124/34PICT-3_1.jpg But the whole carb might need a clean out
Filter looks brand new . It looks like a sintered type as opposed to a paper type .. use WD40 not carb cleaner to look fo air leaks ...my money is servo vac or central manifold joiner bits if type 1 ...the servo pipe directly behind engine tin can pop off ...you can block servo at carbs to see if it is servo related
Well it seems I'm no further forward, now all hoses are new and the fuel filter has been changed. Started it up and pressed the break, no problem so decided to take it for a run - about three quarters of a mile down the road at the first junction when I braked the engine cut out again, restarted then half way up a small bank lost power totally and then wouldn't even idle - I'm a bit stuck where to go now other than to a professional who will know what they are doing Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
