Hi guys I’ve got a type 4 2.0l converted from FI to twin Solex 32 psdts. The bus starts fine but unless I keep my foot on the accelerator the engine just comes to a stop. What should I check? I rebuilt the carbs a couple of years ago with new gaskets but i didn’t mess with any of the mixer screws. Thanks
This is a good set-up procedure for the PDSIT carbs - http://www.itinerant-air-cooled.com/viewtopic.php?t=7767 EDIT. But it obviously isn’t applicable for the 32/34 PDSI carbs that you have.
My set up seems to be different than the link and the picture I don’t have the idle cut off valve only one wire going to the choke I believe.
The right hand butterfly on the top seems a little sticky and doesn’t spring back like the other side. Could this be something to do with it?
Your carbs don't look the same because they are 32/34 PDSI's and not 32/34 PDSITS that are common on 2ltr type 4. Yours don't have a linked idle system like the PDSITs so I wouldn't know about the tuning to be honest. I think they might be type 3 carbs?
I was afraid someone would say something like that. They seem more made to fit rather than meant to haha. Should I look at Getting some more common ones as I don’t know if they’ve ever worked 100 %
If you can’t get the original Solex PDSIT carbs, including the airfilter, you’d be better off with a Weber ICT kit like this - https://www.dellorto.co.uk/shop/vw-...r-kits/type-4-weber-ict34-kit-cb-performance/ And if that is a 009 distributor a SVDA would be much better. And while you’re at it the crankcase and fuel tank breathers should be fitted in the top of the airfilters.
I think it is a 009, there isn’t a vacuum advance so I presumed it was but not 100% sure. I do have the breathers run into the filters but into the bottom of them is that no good?
I would start by checking for vacuum leaks by spraying carb cleaner whilst you keep the throttle open just enough to idle. Normally airleaks are notable because you will get a backfire and exhaust popping. If that is OK, then you will need to remove the carbs and have a look in the float chamber. Clean out the jets and mixture screws and put back together. Spray idle circuit ensuring you see cleaner coming out of the mixture screw hole.
When I get a chant at the weekend I’ll give that a go Patrick, Cheers I’ll look into changing the distributor is it best to go for an Acuspark kit or just points?
Have you had it running sweet with that setup, or has it always had the idle problem? If it was running sweet before, it could just need fresh petrol (if its been stood up for months), and a service. If you have points, that and timing would be a good place to start.
Dubs, I’ve never had it running for longer than maybe 5 10 mins before so I don’t know How well it work but it has worked better than it is. I’ll try cleaning the carbs make sure everything’s clear. Like you say the fuel in the tank is probably about 18momths old at least. So maybe some fresh juice.
I haven’t had points on any of my cars since about 1970. Many don’t rate Accuspark but I had one on my 2.0l type 4 for a few years and it was perfect, never missing a beat and I only changed it for a 123 because I could not because I had to. If you want the Accuspark I’ll sell it for £25 plus postage (from France).
Carbs on eBay.. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/183525858289 In case ... Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
There's nothing to say that those carbs can't be set up to run for your application. As long as jetting is sufficient, you may just have to do some googling to find the set-up procedure. If they are in need of work though it may be a good idea to look for an alternative set.
I would not rush out and buy yet more stuff until you are 100% sure the carburettors are unusable. Your video shows it runs , not neccesarily on all 4 cylinders at first. It also shows the choke flap opening up as the engine starts . Thats the flap at the top you can see looking down. If its a Type 4 engine with hydraulic lifters it may simply need running for a bit to build up the oil pressure in the lifters, and then it may run better Addding fresh petrol may help. An engine will stop if it has no spark. You seem to have spark so leave messing with changing from 009 with points for the future. Make sure you have petrol in both of the carburettors, and it is not pouring down the inlet manifold and flooding the engine. Too much petrol stops engines too. The fuel metering valve im the carburettor float chamber can stick open and cause this. Make sure you have a points gap, and the ignition timing is right. Basically check all adjustments before changing any components.
