Fitting an oil temperature gauge with "taco plate" adaptor

Discussion in 'How To' started by AndyC, Jun 1, 2015.

  1. I fitted an oil temperature gauge and an oil temperature dipstick a couple of months back.

    Due to the fact that it looks pretty hideous, I have now fitted the oil temperature sender in a "taco plate" adaptor.

    I thought I'd write a quick "how to" on what you'll need, and how to fit them.

    Parts required

    Oil temperature gauge
    - in Celsius or Fahrenheit. I bought a VDO gauge - http://www.justkampers.com/321-919-541-a-vdo-oil-temperature-gauge-50-150c-temperature-range.html
    52mm gauge mount - Take your pick! - http://www.justkampers.com/vdo-mounting-bracket-with-1-aperture-2in-diameter-black.html
    Taco plate adaptor - I bought one from Boat Yard Buses - http://www.boatyardbuses.com/
    Taco plate o-ring - 77x4mm o-ring. I bought a Vitron one as they withstand higher temperatures.
    Oil temperature sender - Needs to be M14x1.5 to fit in the taco plate adaptor - http://www.justkampers.com/32380101...-unit-vw-aircooled-1200-1300-1500-1600cc.html
    7-core trailer wire - To run from the sender to the gauge - 10m is more than enough
    Wire fitting kit - To wire in the gauge - http://www.justkampers.com/accessory-wiring-kit.html


    Fitting guide

    1) Firstly, drain your oil.
    2) Remove the existing taco plate. On a Type 4, it's at the rear right of the engine. It comes off by removing the two 10mm bolts. Then get a screwdriver in one of the bolt holes and prise it out. You can see it has been removed in the top right of this picture.
    DSC02331a_zpswkvjsi82.jpg
    3) Clean the hole in preparation of fitting the adaptor, clean the area and remove any metal deposits. I noticed a big "cut" in the hole which worried me, but apparently it's a known mod!!! http://www.itinerant-air-cooled.com/viewtopic.php?t=8947
    P1020061.JPG
    4) Apply a layer of oil to the o-ring, and place the o-ring into the hole. It will be fairy obvious where it sits.
    5) Screw the oil temperature sender into the adaptor plate. Do this finger tight for the time being.
    6) Place the adaptor plate into the hole, with the spade terminal of the sender facing towards where the wire will come from. On mine the wiring came from the left.
    7) Screw the adaptor plate into place using the two allen bolts provided. You might get a slight "pop" as it seats itself into the o-ring.
    8) Tighten the temperature sender with a socket.
    9) You now need to run the 7-core trailer wire from the sender to the dash. On the left of the engine bay (in mine) was a small hole where the wire for the O2 sensor came through. I used this hole to get it into the engine bay. I then run it through a hole in the bottom of the spare wheel well. I then ran the wire along the bottom of the window, behind the drivers seat, under the front mat and up behind the dash.
    10) Fit a female spade connector onto one of the 7 wires, and attach to the temperature sender. Remember what colour you have used! You might want to take this moment to secure the wiring under the engine with cable ties.
    11) Now to wire in the gauge! The trailer wire (remember what colour you used!) goes to the "sender" pat of the gauge. You also need to wire in a switched live, an earth and a lighting +ve. I think that is all. You can find all of these behind the dash. It is recommended to fit a fuse to the switched live wire.
    12) Now to fit the gauge. I have mine fitted into the mount, and then screwed to the underside of the dash. However, due to my height, I can't see it in my normal seating position! I'm going to make an adaptor and fit it into the clock blank on the dash.

    Done!

    Check your gauge to make sure the wiring works.
    When running, I would expect anything from 90 up to 115 degrees, depending on driving conditions.

    If required I can take more photos, but I've tried to be as concise as possible.
     
    nicktuft, Fil6, Lardy and 3 others like this.
  2. Good write up! have you got a pic of the finished article :)
     
  3. I haven't, no. Silly me!
    I'll take some when I get a moment.
     
    Majorhangover likes this.
  4. sANDYbAY

    sANDYbAY On benefits-won't sponsor!

    It certainly will Andy, a nice write up thank you. :thumbsup:
     
  5. If you need any pics, give me a shout.

    PS. Not "those" kind of pics
     
    sANDYbAY likes this.
  6. Where did you get the taco plate with a hole for a sensor from?
     
  7. Boatyardbuses. com, Andy has put a link in the parts list at the start of the thread.
     
    AndyC likes this.
  8. Boat Yard Buses.

    Not on their website, but email Neil and he'll sort you one out :)
     
  9. Great write up @AndyC thanks. Another job for my "to do" list:)

    A quick question - where do yo suggest piggybacking a switched live behind the dash/clocks? I am currently putting in a Tacho and need a switched live. I have sorted the earth and lights. Thanks.
     
  10. I think I used a headlight switch pin. Use a multimeter or light meter to check which is switched live. Some are always live, some switched.
     
    Bertie the Bus likes this.
  11. sANDYbAY

    sANDYbAY On benefits-won't sponsor!

    Just bumping this for my reference as I've finally ordered the temp sender and gauge. :)
     
  12. I used some double spades off the headlight switch...simple as! Good quality brake hose to the 2 pin oil sender/idiot light.
    Drilled 2 holes under stereo slot,one for temp and one for pressure.
    Works well.
     
  13. JT1

    JT1

    Really helpful article Andy - thanks, inspired me to attempt the same.
    Boatyard buses are great to deal with aren't they. Their taco plate is a very nice piece of kit, pity it's buried under the engine.
    I don't appear to have a similar 'hole' for the cable run so tried to follow the main loom only to realise once you reach the bulkhead you're stumped tuesday_wildchild
    Any suggestions for the best way to run the cable from rear to front? The spare wheel still lives in the wheel well so would rather try and avoid that if possible. Would like to 'armour' the cable where it runs under the engine - any ideas as to what to use much apprecited, thanks.
     
  14. Could you come into the cab via the steering column? Not sure if there's any holes around there.

    As for protecting it, you could either run it inside some conduit, or for real protection, some copper tubing!
     
  15. JT1

    JT1

    Cheers Andy,:thumbsup:
    going to get the bus up in the air this afternoon (to see if there's a reversing light switch present) so will have a further poke around underneath! I think I'll route the wiring along the heating pipery (as I'm thinking of fitting a cylinder head temp sender too) and come up through either the steering column as you suggest or by the totem pole. I've seen some PVC sleeving which may protect the cable too.:thinking:
     
    75tintop likes this.
  16. Great HowTo!

    Just ordering the bits following my near meltdown coming back from t/e.

    How's the Vitron o-ring different from the one you get from the usual suspects? Where'd you get it from?
     
  17. Vitron ones are supposed to be more heat resistant.

    I bought a batch from somewhere. Had to buy a minimum of 10 so sold some on here.

    To be honest, your current one will probably be fine after a clean.
     
    Cov1987 likes this.
  18. Many thanks. Tis a great thread.
     

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