How i insulated my main heat pipe -

Discussion in 'How To' started by Poptop2, Sep 14, 2012.

  1. Stopping leaks is even more important than insulation IMHO, leaks from the pipes, heat exchangers and also draughts from poor door seals.
    I chucked a plumbers smoke pellet down mine and was surprised at how bad the flaps were in my repro heat exchangers. The last few millimeters of movement on the flaps make a difference to leaks, on mine that last bit of travel is stiffer to operate and it goes without saying that adjustment is crucial so both heat exchangers close and open at exactly the same time otherwise one of them wont be completely operated.
    If you use a smoke pellet do it outside, not in the garage, and open the cab windows, you want a light breeze to take the smoke out of the cab quickly but not too much wind so you can look underneath and see where the leaks are. My bus still smells a bit of the smoke pellet, but its not too unpleasant.
     
    Poptop2 likes this.
  2. Poptop2

    Poptop2 Administrator

    Yes - we did a post on this beforehand , good point :thumbsup:
     
  3. How would you guys recommend sealing the leaks? I was thinking of using Gorilla tape as it is heat resistant.

    My heating is just about working and I have original heat exchangers but I suspect there are lots of leaks. Also my door seals are rubbish so need replacing.
     
  4. Poptop2

    Poptop2 Administrator

    The tape i used for holding my insulation on - the silver stuff from b n q is ok , or exhaust wrap - tbh most heat resistant tape like stuff will be ok , it doesn't get too hot :thumbsup:
     
  5. All the joins should have hose clamps on to seal them
    Where is your system leaking from?
     
  6. Pretty sure none of mine have clamps. Would a normal jubilee clamp work? I'm not sure where the leaks are from as I've not investigated it yet, I just know that the joints aren't great o_O
     
  7. Rip the thermostat off, block up the air intake behind the fan housing, drop enough oil so its below the bottom mark on the dipstick, adjust the timing so its off and boy you will have the best heating ever! Of course no engine long after but where is your sense of adventure!!

    Just kidding DONT EVER DO any of this! hahaha ;)
     
  8. Yeah large jubilee clamps will be fine

    You often find that the y piece through the rear crossmember and the reducer through the front cross member are rotton and it leaks out the hot air
    All the rest of it is just pipes and clamps
    Earlier bays have a steel centre tube under the bus and later bays had this replaced with a corrugated cardboard hose
     
    zed likes this.
  9. Hmm to be investigated me thinks but maybe when its not minus 300 outside (although that is when I need the heating the most!)
     
  10. Is there enough clearance over the torsion tube to get shut of the Y pieace and run flexies to a new Y piece further forwards?
     
  11. It will be at least -289 inside with the heating on - so thats a bonus - they were hardy souls in the 40,50,60,70's! :D
     
  12. Poptop2

    Poptop2 Administrator

    yes , i did this as my y piece was dust , i used the tin flexi's that were once in the engine bay :thumbsup:
     
  13. What did you use as a new y piece malc?
     
  14. Poptop2

    Poptop2 Administrator

    Two pieces of tin air pipe, i ran those to the rubber bits the over the rear beam and into the large pipe, sealed them with silver tape, ran her up today -3 here and she was toasty in ten minutes
     
  15. Do you have any photos of how it is connected?
     
  16. Poptop2

    Poptop2 Administrator

    No Mat , not at hand sorry .
     
  17. Ta for that. Im looking at doing the same and also junking the metal centre tube (mines a cross dresser(ish)) ive got a tee piece and insulated corrugated tube. Mine s atype 4 so slightly different but basic principle is the same.
     
  18. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    If you fix all the leaks, you'll know you've cracked it by the shower of confetti that comes out of the dash vents the first few times you rev it through the gears. Rust flakes, mouse poo, dead insects...
    If you don't get a good blast of air it's not unknown to find the centre pipe completely stuffed with shredded mouse nest stuff.
     

Share This Page