HI all, tried to weld up my stock 1600 heat exchangers. the metal is so thin that i just kept making big holes in it. I was thinking of using some JB extreme heat to patch them up. any one done this? or do i need to get better at welding? Will post some pics tonight.
I've got some like that too. It's a shame you cant get replacement skins for them. My budget wont stretch to some repro ones just to cut the skins off and weld on to the original exchanger fins. I imagine JB weld would be ok as all you are trying to do is make them as airtight as possible
HT epoxy will work as they arent that hot. Might work better by epoxying on a steel plate and fixing the corners with pop rivets to stop it cracking off. It is possible to weld them, the trick being speed and surprise, and finding where the metal is thick enough. Practice welding on baked bean cans or similar... My surprise find was that the Loctite 5990 High Temperature copper loaded silicone you can buy in Halfords can be squidged between the exhaust pipe and the heat exchanger outer tin to stop it rattling around on the exhaust pipe, certainly at the back end. Not sure near the head, need to check on some I put there a few weeks back. Maybe can smear this over holes in the outer skin too...
Gas welding is the fix you're looking for , remember gas welding ?? PROPER repairs before eveyone and his brother bought a mig to blow holes in thin stuff.... Sent from my SM-A320FL using Tapatalk
If it’s just the other skin, get some thin galvanised sheet from Wickes and just glue it on. JB should be fine, or any epoxy. They don’t get that hot.
I will get some epoxy and have a go. Good call on the pop rivets and bake bean can to practice on. for now I have tacked a few steel patches over the holes was planning on using some epoxy to fill in the gaps between outer skins and the new steel patches.
We used JB on our type 4 HE to fix on a couple of small patches paired over with exhaust paint still there 4 years later... Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
I would stay at the JB Weld end of epoxies, some of the quicker "5 minute" setting ones which also tend to have all the adhesive power of Blu Tak or toffee will go soft well below 100 deg C. The longer the glue takes to cure, the more time for molecules to line up and grab each other and form stronger plastic.
