Late bay Gti conversion

Brickwerks sell an adaptor to make polo/golf/sharan tdi starter motors fit - although I've made my own version this is the plan. You can flip the starter over 180 degrees meaning the starter body is the highest part rather than the solenoid. Between this and cutting in to the gearbox hanger I think it can get the box high enough.

Kennedy adaptors are still £400+ postage.
MV engineering in Telford are doing mk4 golf engine adaptor plates but that's a lot more hassle wiring wise.

I've got a cast alloy adaptor plate, but I'm pressing on with the t25 bell housing version for now.

That said, I've just paid for a t25 with a Diesel engine which the chap has made fit by machining a petrol bell housing so will have a look how easy this is to achieve too.

 

I think it's the challenges that are more rewarding when you solve them
On the mount front, i used to have the standard front gearbox mount, the bell housing mounts and a support bar solidly mounted to the block but hung off the standard air-cooled hangers. I seemed to get a bit of vibration and a bit of judder when pulling off, only when warm though. I modified it again last year to delete the bell housing mounts as the t25 doesn't have them, i then fabricated another frame which is mounted to the chassis rails using mk2 golf crossmember mounts and the engine mounts to it using audi 80 mounts which mount a little further forward, so far it's been a vast improvement, no judder and noticeably smoother.
PS the van does get driven with enthusiasm at times too

 

The mk4 golf uses the same bolt pattern on its engine as earlier golfs. Just the VR6 thats different. Mk4 needs the clocks too so it is more difficult to wire. The loom is about 120 wires big.

 

Ventured into the garage last night, split the engine from the box.

Offered up the 'box and did some clearancing on the nose mount to get it to sit up as high as possible.

T25 starter deffo will not fit, so pressed on with the starter adaptor instead. No pictures of this yet as im ashamed how untidy the garage is so set about making it habitable.

Removed the old peugeot 205 radiator from under the van, i'm left with some space but not not a lot for the enormous Hilux alloy radiator i've bought.

Deadline for conversion is now set, needs to be running and run-in for early June for a local camping trip.

 

Tripped over the engine crane as I walked in the garage so tidied up for an hour then got onto making my starter bracket

Actual size diagram borrowed from Sven from vwkd



Laid over a 12.5mm aluminium plate (£13 off eBay) then a big hole saw for the middle and drill out the original holes and smaller tdi starter fixing holes



Trim off the waste (grinder wasn’t the best idea [not the app you filthy bunch]) ended up using a jigsaw aluminium blade




Then ground off the rough corners, tapped the tdi starter holes and fixed it on. Still need to countersink one of the original fixing bolt holes but you get the idea




As an aside, I searched the breakers for a tdi starter and they wanted to charge £30 for an untested one. Went on eBay and used ones were £45+
Took a chance on a refurbished one at £40 delivered being very sceptical and was amazed when a Bosch starter turned up! Originally from a polo tdi


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It's good when the end of a fabrication session comes up trumps i've had my fair share of 'prototypes' that didn't quite work or binning stuff you didn't think u'd ever need again!

 

Pulled a late one Friday night and made some real progress.

Sick of man handling the engine on straps I spent £27 on a leveller. Money well spent if your engine is designed to be on the pss





Tried at first to mate up the engine with the gearbox fitted but quickly gave up.
Dropped them both, fitted them together and lifted them back in - much easier with the leveller




Came across my first issues with clearance- looks like the coolant hose will catch and the inlet manifold will touch the left side of engine bay








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Now I must confess to a bit of cheating, about a month ago I rang fellows speed shop asking about their large fuel tank outlet.

Chatted to Perry about what I was fitting and he says “oh I’ve got one of them here”
Turns out they had just removed the exact conversion from a late bay and converted it to Subaru.

So a deal was struck and I raced off to bromsgrove to pick up another engine, which crucially also came with engine mounts and an exhaust!

So with mounts in the bag I pressed on





Now - the mounts are a bit rudimentary but they fit in any case!

Problem that I have now is how low it sits...



Must only be 150mm ground clearance from the sump which is a worry.
Even the t25 starter will fit on top of the gearbox which means it’s too low.

One each side the original hanger bar mounts are used



If i re-drill the fixings points in the chassis leg I can get at least 40mm higher - once the snow has melted I’ll undo the bolts and see how high I can get them.




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Not a lot of progress as found some rust to deal with while in the engine bay.



Also had to trim some metal from the tinware so the inlet manifold wouldn’t catch.

Then found that the casing was damaged on my ‘new’ t25 gearbox.



The lowest mounting hole has broken, this is where the side shift gear linkage mounts so needs repairing.

Brickwerks sell these but out of stock so had to make my own












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Just more wiring fun tonight, trying to make sense of the loom that came with the engine from fellows and the one I had already stripped down.

Running just an Ecu relay and main power relay to control fuel pump/engine power seems to be the way forward.



Someone has previously hacked out my spare wheel holder leaving a void over Nsr wheel arch - think this will be a good place to hide Ecu/relays as can be accessed from above or below and are in a dry place (ish)


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Bringing back memories the rear chassis leg mod, i hung onto the tinwear sealing lips for years before i finally chopped them out. Problem is, i chopped my chassis number off too

 

Running out of pre-work time now, but will post some pics up later where my relays and ecu are mounted. Ps they are on the other side to try and avoid exhaust manifold heat

 

err... wheres that stamped? the bits ive chopped off are in the bin!

 

Mine was on the left hand side as you open the engine lid, stamped on the raised skirt that the original air cooled engine seal fitted.

 

Ecu and relays for engine.

 

An upright engine then, interesting that there is room.


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Another push tonight, painted the rust repairs after slipping out of work early today. So by the time I went out to the garage at 8 I could push on!

Ground a bit more off the nose cone mount as it was catching



Then messed about trying to edge the engine forward/downward then upward again and gave up - I’m gonna for it as per the mounts I have got and raise it later if necessary.

So strapped her up and bolted her in - sat happily in situ with all bolts tight



No clearance issue from the head to firewall panel




Even the solenoid from the t25 starter sits with 30mm of clearance.




So moving onto more cryptic stuff like cables and hoses, I tightened all hose clips and offered up the accelerator cable - it’s not far off but about 70mm short.




Have already ordered and received the 1600 cable which is longer apparently than the 2000 cable I assume is fitted to my van


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