Lottie, a 79 full restoration Part 1/2/3/4/5

Discussion in 'Restorations' started by martinvention, Jul 12, 2015.

  1. Fill flat feel, fill flat feel, fill flat feel, fill flat feel, finally getting there!! Fill Flat Feel.jpg
    This is the first panel I repaired in 2015 and needed the most work with welding top and bottom but whilst not perfect is ready for primer, knowing that there will be a little more work with stopper before top coat. Several wet on wet coats of Epoxy and what a transformation: NS Rear quarter in primer.jpg

    Looking quite flat as well from this angle
    NS Rear quarter in primer 2.jpg
    I used a different gun this time, a cheaper lighter SIP but with a smaller air cap and I think a better delivery than the DeVilbiss. It was also a bit easier to poke it into the gills, and whilst there is a bit more than optimum coverage inside I can live with a run or two and better protection: gills in primer.jpg

    I then used the dregs from the spray cup to brush the back of the gills and places where the spray did not reach. Consequently there is some more work on the outside of the gills, where I touched wet primer with the brush handle, when it has hardened fully. Time I think for a couple of days of 'garden Leave'.
     
    art b, MeelisV, crossy2112 and 3 others like this.
  2. It’s always nice to lay some primer on a panel after all the effort of filling and sanding
     
    JamesLey and crossy2112 like this.
  3. Absolutely Paradox. Did lots of hedge cutting, got stung by a wasp. Also took a 5.25 Lt aircooled flat four for a blip around Dorset's lovely Isle of Purbeck. A Lycoming of course fitted in this:

    Piper Warrior.jpg
    There was a man who knew what he was doing in the right hand seat! I read lots of VW 1600's have been put in home built light aircraft but I found little on Lycoming powered VW's? doubtless it has been done, though avgas is not cheap. So now refreshed its back to the grind and finally banish the tango paint, just the offside middle and rear quarter to go.
     
    paradox likes this.
  4. nice to see primer going on. makes it all worth it in the end ,:thumbsup:
     
  5. Thanks shielsy, OS middle almost ready and and rear coming good, there are more seams on this side and took some time removing old sealer either side of middle panel and in front of gills. I use a penknife with a snapped blade, rat-tail file and sandpaper folded over filler spreader edge to clean up the seam and then Rustings to kill any rust. New sealer in a day or so when work resumes. Piccies:
    OS middle and rear prep.jpg

    C Post seam.jpg

     
  6. Last Tan-go:
    Last Tango.jpg

    Tan-gone

    All Grey Now.jpg
     
  7. looks very level :thumbsup:
     
  8. Thanks shielsy, but with paint finish it seems its two steps forward and one back. Out in the daylight filler pinholes and minor blemishes show and are treated to knifing putty (Lechler Splat 0 Rapid) and than I start flatting down all panels with 800 wet and dry. I plan a further couple of coats of Lechlar Epoxy then a final flat before topcoat.
    Stopper spots.jpg
     
    Last edited: Sep 1, 2018
    MorkC68 and JamesLey like this.
  9. when i do my own stuf , i use the da sander with 800 paper discs then 500 ,dolphin glase any pin holes,refill what ever has tobe filled .rubb all down and reprime , body work is slow expensive stuff keep up the good work
     
  10. Thanks shielsy, is the 500 after 800 to provide a better key? and do you use an epoxy primer? I am using Lechler and they do say to dry sand with 180-220 if using as a primer and 280-320 if using as a primer sealer but I guess that is when top coating with their recommended Isolack-Acritop and I will be using cellulose. So I am not quite sure what paper I will next use.
     
  11. fiat500 007.JPG fiat500 010 - Copy.JPG fiat500 010 - Copy.JPG fiat500 015 - Copy.JPG fiat500 013.JPG
     
    rob.e likes this.
  12. here in these pics of my 500 ive done the same as ant one else in the prep. then as i explained i daed it down with 320 then 500 going down as far as 800 to give the body work and good leveling down , marking any imperfections on the body so i won t miss them ,dolphin glase any minor marks , and refill the bigger bits . resand , and 2k prime again , repeating the process untill i get it to when iam happy , going down the grades helps smooth and key the primer ,
    fiat500 001.JPG fiat500 001.JPG fiat 001.JPG
     
    Bulletooth likes this.
  13. I think the higher the grade the finer the paper is. 800 will be much finer than 320. You work up the numbers towards final top coat, not the other way round.
     
  14. i just seen thst DOH lol thats why i changed it lol
     
  15. Thanks Shielsy and Paul, got all that and more or less following the 320>800 trend though mostly by hand and wet for the 800.
    So after two spotty phases and new masking paper/card all round, in fact several days more work, we get back to another grey box: second primer.jpg

    and to be honest the irony is that most folks would never see all that extra work ...............unless of course it had never been done!
     
    vwbusman, paradox, womball and 3 others like this.
  16. too true but all that extra work you done will pay divet ends to your finish i take my hat of to ye keep up the excellent work
     
  17. The effort will be worth it in the end
     
    shielsy likes this.
  18. Thanks folks for your comments and 'likes', the end of the painting is definitely in sight especially as the weather is turning cooler. Rubbing down I inevitably went through to metal on some corners and found some bits that were not quite right. Remedy after filler/putty, small brush or big gun? fortunately neither as I finally found a use for this little airbrush rascal that came as a freebee with some air tools:
    airbrush.jpg

    It is intended for use with an aerosol can of just air or some other gas but works fine connected to a compressor turned back to 30 psi. Great for small or awkward areas and builds and blends in well. Also shown a DiY tool to get at some of the convex surface inside the gills. Today and Wed too windy cool and humid for the topcoat so Pastel White top rescheduled for Thursday.
     
  19. Today the weather cleared earlier than expected, humidity down to 60% light winds and though a bit cooler than ideal I decided to crack on. Lots of cleaning, hoovering panel wipe, some de-nibbing and tack cloth. I also placed a small heater inside the van, two halogen spotlights overhead and turned on the tumble-dryer which fortunately lives in the garage, for an hour and by the time I was ready to spray the metal and air were much closer to ideal. The top half in pastel white has always seemed the smaller part of the deal but with all the gutter angles and shuts I believe it is probably the more difficult part. After 4 coats on the roof and 3 below the gutter I drew stumps. There are some runs on the doors and I figure a further coat might be needed after rubbing back but with cellulose I feel I can wait until a lot more of the assembly work is done as there are bound to be some nicks and scrapes in the process. Some piccies: Top Front in Topcoat.jpg Gills in topcoat.jpg Hover craft in topcoat.jpg

    Quite reasonable shine already but not everywhere especially with over spray from sides getting on the roof. But tonight I am a happy bear with my T2 hovercraft??.
     
    Last edited: Sep 13, 2018
  20. :hattip::hattip::hattip::hattip::hattip::hattip::hattip::hattip::hattip::hattip::hattip::hattip::thumbsup:
     

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