Major the Westies rebuild project

Discussion in 'Restorations' started by MorkC68, Sep 26, 2016.

  1. These may help
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    You can see the jiggled edge where the panels join
     
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  2. i probably have this bit to do on my van, at least on sliding door side according to mr mot man.....
    thanks for pics
     
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  3. Cheers thats great help

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  4. How about non sliding door side with seam

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  5. I’ll have a look later, we did do that long repair panel, I have fond memories of 3 panels on top of one another :eek:
     
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  6. I cut an old repair which had been done in this way off mine, I was planning on replacing it flush though. Is there a particular benefit to doing this overlap? I con only think about the amount of filler it would require to level out afterwards, as was demonstrated when stripping mine :eek:
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  7. By joggling the edge on one panel you should get a better join, spot welding them together will get you the alignment initially, you can then, if you wish, run a few seam welds along the join after its all on nicely.
    Unless your a whizz at welding, this should minimise panel distortion as butt welding could distort each panel, it did on Gusbus, it was a pig of a job to make it look neat!
     
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  8. Ah ok, so for an amateur like me this is probably the best way to go, despite the amount of filler needed. - Thanks! :cheers:
     
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  9. @the 3 crispies

    Here is the long repair panel, I don't have as many images as what I first thought:
    DSC00830 (2).JPG DSC00834 (2).JPG DSC00835 (2).JPG

    DSC00853.JPG
    As with the other side, joggle the edges and spot all the way along for a better join. Paint, fill and flat back!
     
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  10. The joys of rusty buses..we've been tackling the right hand rear window frame, some underlying water caused rust pitting, which, when cleaned up with a wire wheel wasn't rotten, just pitted. A light skim of body filler and it began to look good again :)
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    Ive been looking at the lower sill sections which have rust bubbles and blemishes, again luckily no rotten areas, just pitted

    The short sill cleaned up okay; will Vactan treat it and maybe cover the pitting with some filler. It will get a coat of stone chip for future protection.
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    The long sill tidied up, again Vactan tomorrow and stonechip for protection.
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    More to follow :D
     
  11. We darent tackle underneath yet!
     
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  12. You've been lucky with the window frame. I've got a donor section thats been sat in my shed for a decade waiting for me to weld in.
     
  13. thankfully, yes! We dreaded taking the window out and what was lurking. We still have the left hand side to tackle :(
     
  14. Enjoying following this Mark, which bus will be at techenders? Look forward to seeing you
    Andy
     
  15. It will be Gusbus as Major will be another year or so at least! Yes, look forward to seeing you too, Keith's seems a long while ago :(
     
  16. Quite a successful afternoon on the front right wheel arch. Got most of the rust off and a good coat of Vactan applied.

    Heres the right rear wheel arch lip as that is quite rusty
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    Heres the right front wheel arch
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    Looks like the arch has had a previous repair, lead loaded perhaps? Anyway, there is a small hole to sort :(
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    Vactan'd
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    Looking under the wheel arch where the Dinitrol was, there is lots of surface rust as seen, luckily its not rotten. I did pay a professional to treat the bodywork so it would be good for years to come..that was money well spent, not!
     
  17. Most of the right hand side bodywork is sorted and flatted back, whilst we are doing that side, we want to sort the wheelarch tubs out and descale those.

    These where Dinitrol treated by a specialist who was supposed to paint over any rust spots with epoxy primer then coat them..we have a lot of areas to sort:
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    I certainly will not be letting that so called near Major ever again :(

    We made a decision to strip back the running gear and refurbish all of that at the same time, brakes removed for new cylinders and a check of the wheel bearings, repaint the hubs, springplates (swapping the donuts too), dampers and brake backplates. Might as well do a good job of them!
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    That's just the one corner :eek:
     
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  19. Get all the parts blasted and powder coated mark.
    It will save you many many hours of work over stripping,prepping and painting everything.

    For the chassis and underbody your going to have to spend a fair bit of time with a scraper then a solvent
    Before any form of paint can go on.
     
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