Shame JK have an inaccurate year range on that, it stopped going through the tin on later ones, possibly when it changed to the square paper air box.
555mm from far edge of circle on top of stand to outside edge of rear bodywork or 455mm from centreline of stand circle outside edge of bodywork
Cheers Rob My 'bolt on' tray seems not the norm. Anyone any info on its origins or fitment? It has a VW stamp on it. BTW my oil bath filter (now I have cleaned it up) has a stamp - 10/68 - so a clue to it's provenance?
I'm watching this with interest, put photos up @Youngdub as you go please?!? I have a 72' 1600 twin port with a right bodged mess of pipes, paper filter and no stand for an oil bath one. Looks like I need to do the same as you so any lessons you learn along the way will be useful for us following your lead!
Hi there SE. I have learnt so much fixing things that were not broke, with encouragment and help here, as I have been getting used to my bus (new to me in April). Firstly was swapping my distributor out. I had a 009 type, like yours, and I have swapped it to SVDA version as would have been fitted to these buses. I have a thread on it. My first question would be - do you have reliable timing marks for TDC, 7.5BTDC and 28/30BTDC. If not then read my thread on this - me learning on the job RE the filter. you need to find a suitable one. You won't find one like mine (luckily!) as I have not been able to see another identical anywhere on the inter web, at all! Just get one that is for an early or late bay. All do basically the same thing, just a bit differently... You will need a filter stand. Once again, mine is not seen anywhere else on the web (a parallel universe perhaps?). They are usually welded in (mine has factory bolt holes) and are often cut out when twin carbs are fitted. Breakers yard probably, or someone on here and you will need it welded in place - our friend @robcod has kindly posted location measurements above. Then you 'just' need to find out where to attach your oil crankcase breather tube to the filter box (that thick black one pointing to 2 o'clock in your picture - where is it attached to at the moment?). Then similar with your fuel vent system (tubes at top) which I think is going into your pancake, like mine. Wont get a chance to progress mine much this weekend I don't think, but will post progress
Awesome, yeah I'm contimplating going the whole hog and putting as much back to original as possible, the 009 dissy for one, carb for another. I suppose almost every engine that has lasted this long is a bit of a frankinstein of parts by now anyway. My hoses were a right bodge, the fuel breather had just been stabbed through the filter element when I bought it, and the oil crankcase breather just had a mini paper filter on the end. The whole engine was leeking oil from every orifice, not too quickly but every surface was wet to the touch. I've heard suggestions that with the proper filter and connections it will create a slight vacuum on the crankcase oil to reduce oil leaks but I doubt that alone will fix my problems! Long story short, I know I'm in for a rebuild, I'm just wanting to make sure I do it right once rather than having to constantly bodge it! As far as I'm aware the timing marks are good, it's got two notches, one for TDC and the other for 5 or 7.5 off TDC. The whole engine is gathering dust in the shed at the moment. The rebuild is planned once I've finished chasing rust on the van. Looking forward to seeing how you get on!
It might be worth checking with the likes of Megabug or FBI VW for a more correct oil bath filter with the vacuum operated preheat air flap, the thermoswitch for the vacuum flap, the crank case breather just after the little weighted flap and the tank breaather spigot above the oil on the carburettor side. The oil bath cleaner shown also has a smaller air intake than you would expect on a 1600 late bay bus. And the 'factory screw holes' are most likely drilled out spot welds.
Mike, are you suggesting my intake orifice is not large enough...? I can always cut the end off to enlarge it. There are a few (aftermarket!) drilled holes in the snorkel nearer the connection to the air box which may be there to compensate?... You may well be correct on the drilled holes on my stand, although they look pristine and all v.accurate... I have not seen this design of stand in my research irrespective of whether it was bolted or welded (which I accept was the most likely). I am unlikely to introduce the warm air feature because: I do not want to cut a hole in my tin-wear; filter does not really support this; do not have the 'stove' part; and unlikely to drive much, if at all in the winter Intrigued by your suggestion about hose connections. Could I connect my fuel vent pipe to the existing and only (large) inlet pipe on my filter box (aka @robcod above) and fix the crankcase vent to the inlet tube underneath my snorkel - is this the manufacturers design? Cheers (and thanks)
I think on your air cleaner, the hole under the spout is the crank case breather connection , and the hole on the side is missing a reducer that would take the tank breather. On mine its plastic and broken anyway.. think some creativity using nylon hose joiners or even a brewing cork with a hole in it. . I run a sawn off intake snout ...
Edgy Do we need a thread 'Show us your sawn off snouts' The tube connections all do make sense - thanks.
Update on fitting the oil bath filter. Firstly I used measurements from @robcod to position my filter shelf. I drilled some holes and bolted it in place. I then plumbed in the oil bath, connecting crankcase breather hose, and then fuel vent hose to my DIY spigot which is fastened to a hole drilled into the filter case (see earlier post for what I used). I will need to shorten the crankcase breather pipe now I know it all fits. Took it for a spin, and....felt no different, but I did not expect it to! However, I have reverted my engine to how it was designed to breathe and ditched my made in Taiwan pancake filter
Well done, the breather pipe should be angled straight down from the filter so any oil drains back to the engine.
Yes, I will shorten it next time I open the engine door! Any comments on the angle of my snozzle? Plenty of gap when the engine hatch is closed but wonder if it should be angled more towards the centre of the engine...
Look about right, some filters have arrows on the top and bottom of the filter you line up. Here's an early cable operated flap filter to give you an idea of orientation.
Thanks for posting a great thread , my 1600 is exactly the same as yours when you started , now I have an idea how to get rid of my own pancake Cheers jim
