removing 1600 engine for 1st time

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by VW-Pete, Apr 9, 2018.

  1. foe

    foe

    Another thing. While my engine was/still is, out. I've replaced the cv joint, rear suspension and painted underneath, all those hard to reach parts and places. All this is sooooo much easier when the engine is out.
     
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  2. When I took mine out you need to be able to jack van up higher then you think
    Be careful at that point
    When putting back in have van in gear and wiggal fan belt to turn engine to line up shafts
    Engine will glide in ( hopefully )
     
  3. Good call,dont forget there are 4 seals.
     
  4. Check all the cooling flaps under the fan shroud for free movement ( or replace if missing) check the flaps return spring. This holds them open in case of missing or faulty thermostat. You don't want the flaps wedged closed! You can only get the shroud off with the engine dropped, so do it now.
    If you have a thermostat fitted, you'll have to unscrew it from the pushrod, or you won't be able to lift the shroud off. Lots of swearing will ensue otherwise. You could do this with the engine in, as it's a bugger if the engine is on the ground.

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  5. matty

    matty Supporter

    Blimey if you do all that lot every time you take the engine out you might of well park the thing up and leave it.

    All I would check is the clutch plate thickness and if you have not taken it out before I would check the fuel pipes behind the fire wall then get it back in and use it.
     
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  6. Thanks for the info iv read through the Haynes Manuel however this only covers the prototype bay with the removable rear valance and no doubt a few other differences. for now I am going to just have a go, if I get stuck I will ask some more questions.
     
  7. thanks for the reply my bay is stock height. How much extra height do you think I would need to get the engine out? I have some car ramps they are probable only 200mm high. I doubt my axle stands would high enough to reach the underside of the chassis.
     
  8. This is how high I took mine to take the engine out.[​IMG]

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  9. Flakey

    Flakey Supporter

    I normally put the back of the van on ramps, drop the engine with motorcycle lift on a board then slide engine off the lift onto board so it’ll slide out from under the van maybe with a bit of a tilt back to clear the bumper if I haven’t removed that.
     
  10. Thanks for the reply, the Haynes Manuel says to remove the carb and the fan shroud but this only covers the prototype bay models. looking at your picture it looks like if you can jack things up high enough you can leave it all on the engine. hopefully makes things a little easier.
     
  11. I take the engine off the gearbox spline with the van on its wheels . Then lower the engine onto the jack. Then jack up the van. That way you don't have to jack the bus so high. It also makes it easier to get the engine off and back onto the spline as the engine is not tilted at an angle. You do need to borrow a couple of jacks though. Defo change ALL the breather hoses when the engine is out.
     
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  12. Sounds like a better way of doing things. Is it possible to lower the engine all the way to the floor with the bus at stock height? I can then jack up the bus and drag the engine out on a piece of plywood.

    The reason for asking is I only have one trolly jack. I guess I could stop being a tight git and go buy another jack if not.
     
    Last edited: Apr 14, 2018
    Valveandy likes this.
  13. That is what I do. you will need another jack though. I have a low entry jack. It really helps. This might be a good time to invest in a good jack. SGS do good quality and relatively cheap ones.
    https://www.sgs-engineering.com/tjl...jack?msclkid=219319b8b0c81fabaff5436ade8fcfc7
     
  14. Ozziedog

    Ozziedog Supporter

    If you are doing this for the very first time, all the stuff^^^^^^written above is brilliant advise. The one thing that catches loads and loads of people out and most won’t admit it is ‘’terminology’’ . Whatever you read, there can be lots of different names for the very same part. Clutch release bearing is one of these,it’s also referred to as a throw out bearing, sometimes a clutch bearing or thrust bearing and also several other names so if you get a hesitation in your thinking , it may be because of different terms so don’t be shy about asking as you might be on the right track But defeated by words.

    Ozziedog,,,,,,,,,,ask me how I know ;):);)
     
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  15. Oh and a top tip. when you get to putting the engine back in, don't, whatever you do, trap the throttle cable. It will cause lots of swearing.
     
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  16. There's a lot of talk of dragging engines out, so I thought I'd share my top tip. I use two sheets of plastic on the ground. I put a board between the engine on Jack, and lower it down. Then you have to kind of tip it off the jack. Once on the ground, you grab the top sheet of plastic and pull. Engine slides out nice and easy.
    To put it back in is the reverse. I sit on the floor and push the engine with my feet. Easy.
    Getting it back on the jack is a pain though. I lever it up to get chocks then bricks under the board until it's high enough to roll the jack under.

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  17. DSC_1352.JPG

    Well I got it out finally. Took about 10 hours at least 8 hours spent on the most stubborn rusted solid nuts and bolts that simple would not undo. I reckon il have it out in an hour or 2 next time.
    So next question. Can anyone recommend a good site to buy some replacement nuts and bolts from?
    DSC_1349.JPG
     

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  18. Few more pics of the engine. Can anyone one see anything wrong? All advice really appreciated. When I did the spark plugs no. 4 was covered in oil I also get a bit of white smoke on 1 In 3 start ups it stops smoking after a minute. Can I do a compression test with the engine out? Maybe hand Crank the engine over or use an impact wrench to Crank it?
     

    Attached Files:

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