Subaru conversion start

Discussion in 'Modified Shizzle' started by pkrboo, Mar 27, 2017.

  1. The rjes bit is ok, I'm just probably over thinking it but I expected more of the VW orig wiring but I guess not.
     
  2. Oh the fuel breathers? Yes I blocked the right one as it goes to the inlet manifold so blocked it just in case. The other one is just a link from right to left on the engine so I left it open
     
    pgtips likes this.
  3. No there actually isn't much VW wiring
     
    pgtips likes this.
  4. been doing a few bits, took out the air filter bracket (which I would recommend you remove before engine install as lot of swarf).
    I left it thinking I might make use of it but its a PITA and in the way.
    A good tool to do this is a oscillating saw like this one https://www.amazon.co.uk/Draper-23038-250W-Oscillating-Multi-Tool/dp/B00AY04JZS , they cut metal, plastic etc and blades are not expensive if you shop around. Like they use to remove plaster casts etc, cut anything except your skin (not that I tried to much)
    air filter bracket.jpg

    I also couldn't work out how pkrboo fixed expansion tank but i had some bits kicking around, 15mm std house copper pipe, a couple of pipe wall clips, some bits of metal I cut and bent, fastener, a gate bracket and some paint (remember blue peter lol)
    bits-needed.jpg
    bend the bracket and add a popper, the bracket fixes to the firewall in the engine bay and can swing to allow access
    bent-bracket.jpg

    everything in place before painting it
    in-situ.jpg
    looks nice, won't go anywhere.
    final finished.jpg
    top view just before it was painted. Fits a treat, doesn't move left or right, up or down, easy to remove if necc.
    finished.jpg
    Prob about £10 in bits, like everything its time
    PG
     
    Last edited: Jan 12, 2018
    Valveandy and pkrboo like this.
  5. if you get stuck on parts and have time a lot of UK sellers get stuff from abroad.

    I had a lot of probs with the 38mm t piece (38/38/25) and after a month had to cancel the order but found same bits were on aliexpress and cheaper !

    It takes a while to arrive so order in advance but they are pretty reliable.

    for example
    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/28m...32702708037.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.yob4Ju

    I got the connection on the other side with the screw in for about £3
     
  6. Do you have a pic of your exhaust from the rear? Just wondered how it protrudes
     
  7. I'll see what I can find. It looks pretty stock tbh
     
  8. I was wondering how low any of it is, as I’m lowered....
     
  9. Fairly low. Nick tune and his mate are doing an exhaust soon. They just need to run it to iron out any issues.

    Look in the FB group

    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
     
  10. Looks like that sits low, presumably because of the engine mount bar.

    My exhaust use to sit just below the bumper.
     
  11. I'll do some better pics tonight
     
    Razzyh likes this.
  12. Hi,

    I'm starting my coolant plumbing up tomorrow but while checking my pipes I 'found' my brake booster pipe. Did you have one pkrboo and if so where did you connect in to get the vacuum (or a recommendation)

    PG
     
  13. Yes, on to the inlet manifold. There is a large stub for it to go on.
     
    pgtips likes this.
  14. This one ? (looks most likely)

    20180116_170115.jpg
     
  15. getting stuck into the hoses, replaced all my fuel pipes.

    While I was figuring out the run from the engine to the rads I took lots of notes as its quite tricky so hopefully this might help somebody. There's lots of ways I'm sure but this was how I did it, it might help as a template.
    There's quite a lot to figure, not least navigating the exhaust and the moving parts of the rear axle. The problem is the exhaust is near the hoses come out the engine and you have to go through the rear axle to get to the rad without kinking the coolant hose.

    This is from scratch. I didn't have any bits so made a list, bought some bits, then did some more and so on and eventually I get a complete list. I'd say rough cost appx £100 all in incl jubilee clips (45cm+) etc + other hoses in the engine and fuel lines etc.

    The beaded straights are these
    http://www.autosiliconehoses.com/cu...8mm-choose-your-length-end-bead-optional.html
    I ordered (all beaded)
    38mm - Custom Alloy Straight Hose Joiner - 950mm AHJ 950 038 1
    38mm - Custom Alloy Straight Hose Joiner - 300mm AHJ 300 038 2
    38mm - Custom Alloy Straight Hose Joiner - 600mm AHJ 600 038 2
    38mm - Custom Alloy Straight Hose Joiner - 250mm AHJ 250 038 1

    All the rubber bends on ebay were about £7.50

    Engine 38mm outlets.
    From water pump side, in sequence
    water pump to
    > 45 deg rubber bend
    > 38/38/25 alloy T piece
    > 90 deg rubber bend
    > alloy beaded straight
    > 45 deg rubber bend
    > alloy long straight
    > 38mm rubber pipe join 20cm long
    > alloy long straight
    > into the 90 deg rad reducer (on earlier pkrboo parts list for RJES rad)

    Other side
    Engine>
    > 90 deg rubber bend
    > 38/38/16 npt T piece
    > 90 deg bend
    > alloy small straight
    > 90 deg rubber
    > alloy small straight (tbc/not bought yet but possible use an offcut or appx 120cm)
    > 90 deg rubber bend
    > alloy long straight
    > 38mm rubber pipe join 20cm long
    > alloy smaller straight
    > into the 90 deg rad reducer

    Pics to follow will make it easier to visualise.

    PG
     

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