Subaru conversion start

Discussion in 'Modified Shizzle' started by pkrboo, Mar 27, 2017.

  1. Dubs

    Dubs Sponsor

    As pkrboo says, it creates a direct earth to the engine and starter. If the strap is manky, or the connections dirty or painted, the starter will get less current when you turn the key. If the box has been painted, that may have been all the problem was. :thumbsup:
     
  2. I've cleaned it up and it does seem better, I will get a new strap (just as a spare) and a relay (just in case I need to install a hot start relay). Fingers crossed and thanks for everyones help.
     
    StuF and Dubs like this.
  3. Finally located a circlip to secure my auto box cable selector shaft and it moves nicely/freely.

    Got a bugger of a leak where the engine mates to the box though, its engine oil. Not regular full on drip but its weeping enough to be bit bothered about it, I'm wondering if its the replacement plate I fitted to the rear of the engine. I don't remember sealing it with sealant and it was a good fit/bolted tight.

    So @pkrboo you've dropped a few times, have oyu had the gearbox out on its own (with RJES mount) or am I looking at whole engine out... in which case I think I'll be living with a leak for a while ! I suspect the whole lot has to come out.

    Getting my battery terminals properly crimped up then pub and footy later, tomorrow I plan to try the gear change on axle stands to see what happens.
     
  4. You may be able to get the box out on its own.

    Just support the timing belt side of the engine, because it will tip a bit.

    That plate needs sealant on it. It could also be the rear crankshaft seal. But if you replaced the plate and didn't put sealant on then it will be that
     
    pgtips likes this.
  5. arghh, I'm really annoyed about this leak.

    Months building the last thing I wanted was that but I guess I've got to bite the bullet.. hey, anyone fancy doing a techenders (and world cup) at mine to remove an engine :beer:

    Seriosuly though, @pkrboo , you had yours out a few times, how long did it take you and whats my best approach, gearbox only or engine only, I'm on my own with this one so its going to to take longer but gotta do it, its only been running few minutes I've got too much oil on the floor :-/
     
  6. If you have a lowered sump (i.e. flat) them defo take the engine out. It's only the fuel and coolant pipes to clamp and then the engine bar. Pull out and lower slightly on jack and do the work there. No need to remove fully from the bus.

    Even with a normal sump support it properly and take the engine out
     
    pgtips likes this.
  7. still inching forward, my exhaust is tacked into place supported with some wood, hopefully finish off tomrrow ready for its first move forward next week after quite a few years.

    I'm starting to think/hope my oil leak is from the transmission housing (I replaced the gear oil). The cork gasket is very wet/hasn't done its thing yet, well thats the hope. I pushed a probe into the bell housing and it wasn't really wet (as best I could see). I need to get the whole engine warmed up, cooled a few times. I'm leaning towards gear oil not engine but its all so bloody new and clean it looks the same.

    clever little attachement for android phone, search "borescope android" or "endoscope android" in ebay and several pop up for about £6 , makes me look like I know what I'm doing.

    PG
     
  8. Got pics of the exhaust?
     
  9. Gearbox oil has a very distinctive smell compared to engine oil.
    Have a sniff of your dipstick then a whiff of your leaking oil and see if there the same.
     
    Dubs likes this.
  10. heres 3 sides and from the rear. Its tacked in place but I will take some top down etc before I bolt it in proper after welded up properly.
    got a new lambda sensor as well but its not going in the first hole but on the other side.

    a couple of vibration absorbers will be in place as well where the exhaust fixes to the body.

    side.jpg right-side.jpg back.jpg vibration absorber.jpg
     
  11. I think it did smell different (stronger) but my garage stinks at the moment where I've had the engine started up. Good suggestion though, I will check again over the weekend.
     
  12. Make sure your lamda is sniffing from all four exhaust ports. Otherwise it won't run right.

    What back box is that? It look like it may starngle the engine a bit and really reduce your power
     
  13. for now I'm aiming to get something together that works gets me moving, when I've got some money I'll upgrade :)
     
    pkrboo likes this.
  14. What back box is it?
     
  15. its the one I had from my old camper engine modified a bit.

    If I can find a list of the bits I think I've got a welder but the exhaust makers out there are quite coy about saying which back boxes and bits etc they used. (Understandably).

    The ultimate would be to get a nice SSteel one made up.
     
  16. Need some input guys, exhaust done which is great but my accelerator cable (rjes) is utterly Marmitee. I've got an auto with a kick down on the box. It runs on the left but Subaru acc cable runs on the right.

    Too many snags holding my acc open.

    So... bypass kick down, run straight from pedal to engine. How viable is no kick down?

    Pg
     
  17. Yes, standing at back, front pedal is on left,(LHD) to gearbox where kickdown on right then into engine bay where acc housing is on the left.

    It's the final bit of the journey from kick down lever to engine linkage that's stuffing me
     
  18. its funny after I wrote that prev message I thought why have i got my accelerator body on the left?. Its because the RJES rotated throttle body has a bracket welded on the left for cables to fit... so I did it that way.

    But it doesn't have to be, so I swapped it around (rotated it) so the housing is on the right and fed the accelerator cable through some old vw plastic conduit. I cut off the RJES bracket.

    rotated-acc.jpg
    I had to make up a bracket to hold the cable. 20180717_131831.jpg

    Takes a sentence and few seconds to read but actually took me ages to rejig everything and reroute pipes but it works and for the first time in about 3 years my camper rolled out the garage under its own power.

    I forgot to screw down the water cap so had a bit of a leak. I tightened up my trans sump a bit more and that’s massively slowed down my gear oil leak (maybe fixed I'll keep an eye on it.)

    Only went a few feet but it felt good, fans kicked in when the gauge got to 90 but no idea if that right.
    It also let out a bit of smoke when I revved it, but on tickover it seems happy enough.

    I expected a lot more air to appear in the rad system but its stayed the same so far so maybe there isn't much air in it. I hope water is circulating (how do you tell without transparent hoses?)

    Exhaust cost me £200 in total including reusing my old exhaust and about 10ft surplus exhaust pipe bought in error. I didn't get a pic before it went in but its pretty simple though, out the manifold into a back box with a integrated tailpipe pipe.
    My exhaust lowest point is about 3.5 inches but the sump is only about 4 so its pretty ok.

    over the line :)
     
    paradox, Valveandy, pkrboo and 2 others like this.
  19. Have you attached the accelerator cable yet, that looks like it might be trouble. I never had an issue. With the cable you should have received a conduit that goes on the end of your accelerator tube and feeds up to the throttle body, you then pass your cable through this, works a dream.
     

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