The All New, New "What have you done to your Bay today" thread.

Tappety problem solved!

Turns out the front rocker shaft nut had striped, so the shaft was flexing slightly...

New nut, proper torque (this time!), reset clearance (both cylinders) and he no longer sounds like a bag-o-nuts!!

Phew!

P.

 

Roll them on a flat surface. They may look straight but will not roll smoothly. I bent one like that when I lost a clip on a stock rocker assembly and the rocker arm went sideways.

 

I once had both rocker shaft nuts undo one side and came to a stop with progressive loss of power over about 2 miles. Got it off the motorway and found a place to formally break down. 30 mins later I was back on the way to work having had to change the coil as well for some bizarre reason of no spark when I came to start up with the rocker shaft back in place.

 

The odd thing was there was hardly any drop on power. We're it not for the noise, I wouldn't have known there was a problem.

Interestingly, one thing that did show up was that while the engine is definitely running fmoothly on all 4 pots, only 2 idle mixture screws did anything...I've a nasty feeling this could suggest knackered idle mix screw seats in the castings.

Anyway....that is a challenge for another day.

P.

 

And the short rubber hose sections just inside your fuel filler cap and connecting the fuel down pipe to the top of your tank. If you regularly brim your fuel tank, then excess fuel in the filler pipe can corrode these sections. I recently has to replace both. Fuel leaking out over the tank and into the engine bay. Thought my tank seams had gone. Thankfully not.

Lesson learned - "Never brim the tank. Stop filling well before the fuel nozzle clicks off."

 

So...I might be being thick here, but, should a (very) slightly bent pushrod matter...?

Sure, the overall length of the rod will reduce by a tiny amount if there is a but, but won't the adjuster be able to account for this....?

Sure the geometry will be slightly sub optimal, but will that really matter? This isn't an F1 engine!!

Or am I missing a point somewhere?!

 

Err.. No. Fix the leaks.

I always brim my tank, I drive 7000-9000 miles a year and it only leaks if I park with a full tank across a 15% gradient, because my hose to the tank is OG and is thin, soft and flexible.

A lot of this ethanol story is junk .. the pipes crack on the outside.

 

Waxed him. May do my legs later.

 

Its not the geometry, its the fact that a bent column can carry less load than a straight one. So it tends to bend sideways a little more under pressure, and hit the pushrod tubes and fray holes in them.

 

My success today was a good thrash across on the A30 from Bodmin to Exeter, and it managed CHT up to 169C, oil at 113C at one point but cooled quickly. That was doing 68 GPS MPH slightly uphill for several miles.
It cooled down on the hills...especially when it dropped to 40mph in third gear on the steepest hills.

I have escaped from those pesky Cornish single track roads on a 15% gradient downhill with two milk tankers round a blind bend coming the other way.

 

Checked fuel lines - meant to do this the other week but didn't. Mostly OK but the short section from tank to filter (before pump) is starting to crack. It is of course in a heat sensitive area, but has only lasted 2 years! New 100% bio hose ordered for installation early this week (assuming this novelty of rain has moved on). As we've said before, checking the fuel lines needs to be at least a yearly task.

 

Replaced broken cab door window regulator with a NOS unit.
I don’t want to be doing one of these again soon, tried to remove the old mech without taking the quarter light out but in the end had too.
Used the opportunity to give the inside of the door a liberal coating of waxoyl

 

Yes that quarter light bit is a right faff. I ended up doing three a while back as two OG ones were destroyed by the muppets at the "restorers", and I destroyed one Brazil cheese metal junk one myself before I learned to make sure everything had lots of grease in the right places. The OG ones had the nice feature of properly locking if you let go of the handle. The Brazilian ones rely on friction, to make drive by robbery easier I suppose, just pull down firmly on the glass...
By the end of it, the job became easy.

 

Fitted a Butty’s Bits throttle pedal linkage pushrod, a well-engineered design, length-adjustable with two swivel joints to replace the rubbish s-shaped rod that slips and sticks when worn. Saves me having to lift the pedal back up with my toe between changes!
Also fitted Butty’s extra sliding door rear handle - why didn’t I get one of these 15 years ago!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Fitted my big foot pedal, changed the engine oil, changed the gearbox oil, fitted my cruise control module into a proper position.

Weirdly the new gearbox oil which is part synthetic is completely clear!! Never seen that before

 

Can I ask simple questions about the gearbox oil.
I've never changed it.

Where is the drain plug?
Where is the point to fill it?
What's the oil you put in?
How much oil should there be?

Sorry for the basic questions but it's new to me.

 

The filler plug is half way up the gearbox case on the nearside. It’s a large hex plug. You should always check you can loosen the filler before draining the oil or you will be royally stuck. The drain is on the underneath of the gearbox and again is a large hex plug.
Be warned - old transmission oil stinks.

Stirlingmoz

 

Yes it does
17 mm Allen key needed if I remember

 

Changed mine recently....the old stuff does smell horrible......my new stuff was red....so know I don't know if it's the automatic gearbox or the diff thats leaking.