Type 1, 1776cc engine build.....

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by willster, Jan 9, 2018.

  1. While you're machining, worth tapping the case for an oil filter head. Will stop your bearing shells being slowly sandpapered to death...
     
    paradox and 72devon like this.
  2. The chart and info on John Mahers website explain why people often go for 90.5mm bore cylinders. With a standard stroke and 90.5mm you end up with 1776cc engine
    I've had two x 1776cc engines and a 2110cc in my 20+ years of bus ownership. I'll zap you some specs when i get chance

    This is what John Maher Racing say about cylinder wall thickness
    For a high mileage, street driven bus motor, 90.5’s have one more small advantage over 94’s. Having 3.5mm less bore diameter makes room for a little more cooling fin area. It’s not a dramatic difference but every little helps. That small increase in fin area, along with the thicker cylinder wall means the 90.5mm cylinders are more likely to stay round for longer than 92’s and 94’s. This isn’t a concern for an engine that sees very low annual mileage but if you plan using your vehicle on a daily basis and cram in several long distance road trips (often fully loaded with camping gear and supplies etc), I will usually recommend a max bore size of 90.5mm. With routine maintenance I’ve seen 90.5s make it past the 100,000 mile mark while still retaining good ring seal.

    http://johnmaherracing.com/2013/01/project-2110-part-2-bore-stroke/engine_size_chart_hilite_small/


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  3. his was a 2020cc
     
    Last edited: Jan 10, 2018
  4. Really helpful thanks
     
    paulcalf likes this.
  5. PM coming shortly, so I don't bore people more than I already have!
     
  6. mikedjames

    mikedjames Supporter

    As a good type 4. I was chatting to a near neighbour who has a 2.0L T4 putting out 170HP with carbs and full flow oil filtering/cooling.
    He is happy.
    Meanwhile @scrooge95 has a 1776 with a stock carb and no other provision for cooling. One thing she reported was that it tends to run hot, around 120 deg C.

    I also found that even with a 1641 and a carburettor and exhaust upgrade that running at 120 degrees C at motorway speed was quite common, and cracking cylinder heads is a definite thing. Which is why I now have an additional 8 row oil cooler in a scoop underneath, and drive around at 68mph unless going up hills , with oil at 110-115 deg C.
     
  7. On the other hand...my 1776 with a velocity ring on the fan shroud and an oil filter dangling in the breeze barely gets above 100ºC, which causes me some distress.
     
    paradox likes this.
  8. Thats the way it should be.:thumbsup:
     
  9. scrooge95

    scrooge95 Moderator and piggy bank keeper

    It's like you two are talking another language! I have a 1776cc 'tis true, but purely because that's what was in the van when I bought it.
    I agree that, as with most things VW, a lot depends on who did the original 'upgrade' work. I'm not sure mine is the best, but then as I know fractionally less than bugger-all about engines, I could be wrong. Also, as it's my first camper, I've nothing to compare it to.
    I think I want a velocity ring and a dangly oil filter now...... :rolleyes:
     
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  10. I'd like it a bit higher on motorway runs.
     
    paradox likes this.
  11. Ha! Velocity ring envy, eh?
     
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  12. But thats another story:)
     
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  13. So what has you neighbour done to get the extra 100bhp out of it
     
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  14. :thinking:
     
  15. Installed a 911 engine?
     
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  16. Its easy only 4 bolts,bloke down the pub told me.
     
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  17. Is oil full flow necessary for a 1776cc - I’m a bit paranoid about it running too hot???
     
  18. The "full flow" bit only adds an oil filter, if that's what you mean.
     
    Last edited: Jan 10, 2018
    paradox likes this.
  19. Laurie built that
    Robert built the type four

    Everyone gets het up about bhp
    It’s torque you want in a bus
     
  20. First ask yourself what do I want to do in my bus?
     
    77 Westy likes this.

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