http://thelatebay.com/index.php?threads/huey-1978-westy-champagne-special-eddition.616/ Got some engine build shots in here but not as good as other build threads.
Just a rough measure for now, looks like 2.4mm need to come off the bolt heads, leaving about 3mm. Having cleaned up the oil pump I'll lay the parts out in a case half and see if I can afford to leave a little more meat on the bolt heads
Leave the washers off and use Loctite on the bolts. The machined bolts I have are now on the third engine – I think I’ll stop at 2.3l.
Webcam supply a schnoor type washer but much lower profile bolt. Once the recess was machined off it left us a nice bit of clearance Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
The washers are 0.87mm thick, so that would give a bit more on the bolt heads. I was going to try to leave them on but I suppose loctite is a reasonable alternative High or medium strength Loctite?
With those low profile bolts it's actually not that far off. By the time the oil pump gasket is on there should just about be enough clearance. If I could find my feeler gauges I could measure it! It's actually catching on the bottom stud of the pump and just about brushing the ones at the top that are shown in the photo So if I take 1mm off the heads there should be plenty of clearance
We left a good gap.. just in case.. Edit.. just had a look at my thread to remind me what to order for home made solid rocker spacers.. gap between cam and oil pump bolts was 0.3mm on the fealer gauge!.. Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
High strength if you will never remove the bolts again or medium strength if you think you might fit a better cam in the future.
Thanks. I've ordered medium strength My father in law has a lathe so will turn down the bolt heads for me. I asked him to leave about 4mm on the heads, taking off about 1.4mm. As long as I can get a socket on them to nip them up, they won't go anywhere with the loctite, and I would as soon have too much clearance than not enough
With the bolt heads turned down to 4mm I now have 1.5mm clearance (as measured with a drill bit), and that's without the oil pump gasket The photo is of the bottom stud which was the most prominent So now out with the loctite... and torqued to 18ft-lb Oh, and as I think Deefer mentioned in his rebuild thread, with the marked tooth uppermost on the cam gear, the rear cam lobe points downwards. That makes it easy to check
Now that I've got myself some Graphogen assembly compound I stripped down the big end bearings again, having previously just used engine oil. I was pleasantly surprised at how much was still clinging to the bearings, but have now applied the compound. I've also started refitting the case studs and managed to get 4 in before being interrupted by a visit from the in-laws. Never mind, it's progress, and I shouldn't be that far from being able get the case halves back together
I finally bit the bullet and got the case halves back together. I checked that the cam lateral float was ok - it moves but I can't get a 0.05mm feeler gauge in the thrust faces, so it's within Bentley tolerance. The lightest smear of Curil T and the case halves went back together, with gentle persuasion with a rubber mallet and frequently checking the crank rotated nicely. Main nuts, bolts and washers sealed with Curil T and torqued up. I even had no parts left over, and no studs without washers and nuts. I hope it works so smoothly with the rest of the dismantling bags
