So was on holiday and struggled to get in 1st and second so thought gear stick needed adjustment tryed that no joy . So crawled under and twisted the wing nut on cable but now it's at its max adjustment why ? Sent from my SM-S901B using Tapatalk
The cable is snapping one thread at a time, does it feel slightly crunchy, sometimes you can detect it through the pedal? The more threads that snap the faster the next one goes and they don't last long once they start to go. i.e. I doubt you'll get home.
I got home I only changed the cable last year as put all new 1s in just seems strange that used all adjustment up Sent from my SM-S901B using Tapatalk
One of the welds on the two arms of the clutch lever inside the bell housing can break so the throwout bearing is not being pushed properly both sides. This ought to be rather noisy when you have your foot on the clutch with the engine running.
Welds on the tube can break, the bolt on bracket that the Bowden cable sits in can move all effectively lengthening the cable?
Agreed bowden cable really needs to be secure with little movement and all adjustment done with the wing nut.
Also on the odd occasion when go take off i 1st it judders and struggles as if I'm in 3rd Sent from my SM-S901B using Tapatalk
God hope so just had put new engine don't wanna have get gear box Sent from my SM-S901B using Tapatalk
...and the steel conduit it's on the end of should be firmly attached to the torsion tube a few inches forward of where they meet.
The clutch operating lever can be bought as a new part.. certainly an after market heavy duty part that has beefed up welds. But if the clutch Bowden tube bracket breaks free under the suspension tube.. The cable gets "longer" as the curve in the tube flattens out. So you tighten up the adjuster.. The clutch loses an simple but clever additional spring from the outer tube. Just as the clutch is beginning to bite the tension in the inner rises rapidly. This pulls into the curved outer causing it to compress a little. This means you have to depress the clutch a little further to get the end of the cable to move more, slowing the rate of clutch operation, making it smoother. If the bracket is loose, this progressive operation is missing. Also having the outer of the cable fixed to the chassis means as the gearbox and engine twist and pitch on the rubber mounts with the change in torque, the cable still mostly feeds relative movement of the inner and outer to the clutch lever. This is instead of the lever being pulled and released by the gearbox moving making everything bounce around as the distance from the clutch pedal to the clutch lever changes. Check the bracket - corrosion and damage from jacking incidents can get it.
Thanks for all replys been under and both points where tube attach welds have snapped so problem found Sent from my SM-S901B using Tapatalk
That'll be your problem. You'll never get proper clutch operation with the cable conduit flapping around.