Actually I'm not sure. I'll have a look. On rebuilds a metal plate usually takes the place of the gasket. If I haven't, then a good quality RTV (not acetic silicon) will serve you well.
Bears Motorsport for instance do not use gaskets- partly because the nose cone usually has the ? 2mm thick added bearing retainer steel plate with sealant and the bell housing also just has sealant.. I used a gasket maker sealant as that doesn't set so quickly so it squeezes very thin and flat, as I had to put a new bell housing on myself after couriers smashed my gearbox on the way back from Bears.
For metal to metal I'd recommend Loctite 518 or Worth Super RTV. Neither are cheap but they do the job. Especially on older surfaces that haven't been skimmed as they've got good gap filling properties. As in all sealing, less is more...and keep it away from bolt holes. I've seen treaded holes blown out by silicon being squeezed down as bolts are screwed in If I'm feeling old school and want a gasket sealant then there's a British product called Heldite. It's trickier to use than the loctite as the solvent needs to flash off to form a sticky surface before joining, but it's perfect if a gasket needs to be held in place for a few minutes such as on the Vespa which has 2 case halves that join together. Gaskets are available for our bellhousings, if anyone needs one let me know, they are pennies and the way VW did it
Right, my last contribution to this post. I've said enough haha. @bluerustybucket I don't have any later nose cone gaskets. In fact the 72 -79 gasket is no longer available, 002-301-215A. However the earlier gasket, 68-71 002-301-215, can be cut with scissors...but as @mikedjames says, sealant is used here more often than not. I don't stock this gasket. Bellhousing gaskets span the range, but gear carrier gaskets changed when VW introduced the water-cooled modified 091 box. Nerd! Bellhousing gaskets and notched intermediate gasket to allow for reverse gear relay lever gland nut...nerdy nerd Have a good weekend all ...
I was thankful when @davidoft introduced me to the art of gasket making. Using a blank sheet of gasket paper big enough to cover all the mating metal surfaces in one go..place paper on the mating surface.. try to hold it still.., tap round the outline of the edges of all the mating surfaces with a ball peen hammer until it just cuts through the paper.. then you can carefully separate the gasket from the paper sheet.. If you can remember where the bolt holes are etc, you can tap on those too. Or use a hole punch . I usually make the gaskets for my progressive carb these days..
Thanks for all the useful info, not done a lot this weekend as I’ve been decorating & tiling the new bathroom (as that’s on the list from Mrs BRB ) I notice a few companies offer the earlier gasket, or I’m happy to sit with a ball pein hammer. From memory Weetabix boxes are better quality than Cornflakes
A ball bearing is a nice way to knock a hole for the gasket , by placing it on the casting with gasket in position and tap with hammer .
Done a bit more tonight. Also managed to find a pea Bush to order Sent from my SM-S901B using Tapatalk
Cracking. So that casting ringed below that is bright was VWs attempt to keep the main bearing from chattering backwards and forwards due to the physics of helical gears meshing. It's bright coz the bearing presses against it. If it's not deeply gouged then clean that nose cone, especially around the breather and inside that casting and slap it back together. If you are massively concerned, you can slightly mitigate against further movement by having the gasket face of the nose cone skimmed by 1mm or so and then fitting a retention plate. It'll help for a bit maybe. I've got one Weddle plate spare but to be honest if the bearing is doing that then a new one is appropriate and that probably means a rebuild. Who knows. The skimming is to ensure the reverse switch still operates. I'm not sure if it does without skimming, but it may The plate is only 20ish quid but it's a lot of pain if the reverse switch doesn't work after you've gone to the trouble of fitting a plate without the skim. You could try and operate reverse with a meter set on continuity across the switch terminals before you refit the box. Reverse selector shaft is the middle one of the three and just moves the switch nipple as it shifts. Worth a try maybe... Just shizzle fyi and mid week musings... Bolt it back up and enjoy Told you there'd be something not quite 100 percent if you looked Nb. Don't loose that half moon key that stops the bearing rotating, they have a habit of dropping out when least expected...
When I pulled mine apart you could see the shiny metal paste from the 1mm or so of the ring on the nosecone that had ground away, as goop all around the place. That one is a lot less bad. Mine used to lock into 4th gear if you engine braked to a stop. And on one occasion at least I cruised into a parking space facing a wall with the clutch down and then had to basically slip the clutch in 4th and gently drive into the wall to release it, as it had to move forward a bit on the road...
Thanks for the info Neil. Fortunately, there’s no deep groove (you can only just feel a ridge with your nail but hardly see it). So I will give it a clean up and get it back together when the new bush and gasket arrive. The reverse lights have always worked so probably best leaving the nose cone as is. When I pulled the connecting shaft out I found 3 bushes, all in good order. So I will clean and refit The gearbox coupling has a small amount of play so I’m thinking of a replacement CSP one https://www.justkampers.com/vw-t2-b...ng-vw-beetle-1964-on-vw-t2-bay-1967-1979.html
I agree. It doesn't look bad at all. They have a hard life under the van buzzing around and it amazes me how robust these boxes are...soon be summer
only a small amount of swarf in the bottom, and never had any problem with gears apart from the gear stick bolts coming loose on the way to techenders, but that was a quick fix before Doombar
the gasket set and pea bush have arrived, however the pea bush is metal not plastic. do you think this is going to cause more noise ? after reading vw heritage reviews I’m thinking it might ! the local machine shop said he can make an acetal bush for me if needed
It should be fine. When the suppliers mostly had nylon ones people would seek out and/or have steel ones made. lol What sort of condition is that end of your hockey stick? Looks good in your photo but the old ball is covering some of it. If it's a fairly good fit to the selector and the hockey stick it won't make any noise. Even if those parts are quite worn I doubt you'd hear anything.
