How do you remove the rear wheel arch ? I see it has spot welds on the edge in the sliding door but the panels look as if they have flanges that joint together? Are they welded or will they come apart once the panel adhesive is removed from the joins? I plan on tackling this job the weekend and would like to have an idea of how it joins. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I haven’t needed to remove the rear arch totally, only had to cut out the front section of it, so can’t really answer your question.
you cut a line across and careful not to cut where the internal strengthener is on the inside but you will see. the bottom is spot welded to the inside wheel hub. the front side of the wheel arch is moulded into the b pillar. don' t cut that out as it is very hard to replace nor is it part of the panel. cut before that on the flat section. the bak is spot welded to the inside of the engine compartment to the rear corner. the less you cut the better it is. Be careful not to damage the b pillar outer skin where this folds into. you can cut the bottoms as they have little replacement panels.
There is no panel adhesive on a bus. It's spot welds. If you cut out an inch from any join first, you'll be able to see what's what. One thing about replacement arches is the folds at the seams are too large radius and don't match the existing so if you don't have rusty seams (some hope!) it does pay to leave that part or as much of it as you can and join an inch into the panel. As dean says the front on the non-sliding door side is "trapped" at the C post so that one (most likely to be in good order) is definitely worth preserving. cut out to a couple of inches from the seam so you can see the internal post and decide how to go about it. The rear of the petrol filler side is also partly a sandwich with the firewall. Pick it all apart rather than hacking at it. Everything you don't destroy will save bags of time. I'm sure you know this by now! It's always a good idea to remove panels like this - cut out the centre first to gain a view of (and avoid cutting) the internal structures - that way you can decide to leave awkward-to-attach joints/seams and attach your panels elsewhere. Never let your cutting disc penetrate more the strictly necessary (1mm is safest).
Talking of spot welds, a spot welder is a great thing to have for resto, you can always sell them when you're finished. They don't do thick stuff but for things like inner/outer layers on window apertures and sills and arches they are brilliant - the result looks original and no welds to grind. This row is before cleaning up with a wire wheel. After that they look tiny.
Wow thanks for the reply. The arch has had previous repair and filler bodge where someone must of hit it. I will start by removing all the filler and paint and seeing what I can salvage. Maybe I can beat the old one back to shape and just weld in where the bodge job was Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks for the reply, clears it up . It’s the side that is under the petrol cap for me. PO had a bodge repair where it was hit. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
why do you think I had panel adhesive on my kombi. It only looks to be on this side panel and the panel strengtheners?
That should be a strip of foam. There is some "panel adhesive" here and there to stop panels rattling but it's not really holding things together.
yes that makes sense they wouldn't of held panels together with panel adhesive as they would of fallen apart by now
Had a few more days on the camper. Made the lower panel solid and gave that a coat of rust eater and red oxide, now started prepping the Defo panel. Had to weld in some nuts to take the bumber. Happy with that.
Didn’t think of that, this has several round holes and oval shape ones. Will do that next before I weld it in place, thanks
You don't need to do this, in fact it will be detrimental to the life of the part. Those big holes are for ventilation and help keep it dry inside plus they are useful for waxoyling. If you are going to leave the big ones it seems pointless to weld up the smaller ones? Also if you ever thought to fit a brazil early style/look bumper the holes will be there ready. When you come to plug weld across the top, be careful the arc doesn't jump to/bite holes out of the top panel overhanging bit just above.
ok, thought they must have been there for a reason, will not plate them then. Thanks for the tip, will bear that in mind, learning as I go so every little tip is of help.
did not know that I thought and was always told and on other videos other people close them up for water not to get it
If air can get in so will condensation so it makes sense to air it out. Air/condensation WILL get in there - there are numerous holes into it via the inner panel for starters. VW tried to seal them up around wires and cables with what looks like chewing gum but... condensation forms and must have a way to dry out or it builds up. Those deformation panels seem to rot at the ends where they are lower which seems to confirm that.
Got a few more days on the camper, so on with the front. welded on the New Defo panel today and now going to trial fit the inner windscreen panel and offer up the new front.
Finally got so more spare time on the camper. welded in a new top dash panel and cleaned up front area and gave it a coat of red oxide. just got to prep the new front panel before final line up , clean up and weld into place. Starting to come together nicely. Before an after pics
