you're selling your engine? what is it? how much? and where were you last Thursday when mine blew up?
Sorry last Thursday I hadn't decided to go the Subaru route, it's a 1600 full engine just been rebuilt bolt straight in complete
wanna trade if for two other 1600's (one seized) and a sh*t load of spare parts (I've gone Ebay crazy this week)?!?
Remember that £2700 engine.. you are getting closer. You may be able to clean up the £750 engine, actually measure the endfloat , borrow a starter motor adaptor, get a video of it running and get what you paid for it - if its only a bit out of spec there may be people urgently needing a runner.
Apparently that was the OP a week ago! Can't work without the van apparently. It seems to me that if the recently advertised engine is bus spec then it's a no brainer?
So I have just been to the garage and seen the Ebay engine - it's not pretty to look at but it goes round and I can't feel any end float! Fingers crossed I get a good news call this morning!
Great!. You may be able to hear it hit the two ends of the allowed endfloat when it is just in spec, if you haul and push on the flywheel or pulley, but you should not be able to see it moving. Hope compression is good. Keep the endfloat down - dont hold in the clutch, engage neutral when stopped. Keep it full of oil, its worth keeping a 2 litre oil container full somewhere in the bus. Take regular note of oil use - it is allowed to go down noticeably in a 200 mile trip and there is nothing wrong if it does: if the oil level goes UP then check the carburettor isnt leaking petrol in there and misleading you ! Dont scrap the old engine until it has been torn down and measured : dependent on what went wrong there could be a lot of reusable parts, and a rebuild may be worthwhile. Look at the price of even just a used engine case on eBay.
I could hear and feel 0.13mm using body weight on the pulley. My previous engine was built like that and never changed over 27k miles.. Couldnt be bothered to faff with shims and that was the closest my collection allowed. Comparing with 0.15mm valve tappet clearance and I can now tell when a valve is right by listening and feel. then I use a feeler gauge to confirm.
I thought that until I got my LP engine... Clonk, clonk, he could hear it over the phone! So I measured, it was exactly 0.1mm
Lol. Hard to think how that's possible. On my "spare" motor, it's bang on 0.1mm and you can't feel anything. The pulley is immovable. Ditto on the engine Rob did for me.
You now have two sets of spare parts. Go back to the siezed one its probably the better starting point.
Ahh dang. Sadly it seems like there's no cheap way around these issues unless you have a lot of experience and know exactly what you're looking for... What's not good with the eBay engine?
From the eBay description - untested but turns over by hand fine. Has some end float but the engine is totally complete apart from exhaust so ideal for rebuild!
