Body work journey

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by Chrisd, Apr 10, 2022.

  1. Chrisd

    Chrisd Supporter

    There are a plethora of paint types out there, cellulose, 2k (with or without isocyanate), acrylic etc and terms galore, base and top coat, clear coat etc so I'd say I'm confused.

    I've been looking at trying to ID my non original paint. The picture below show the shiny top layer which when sanded comes up with a white dust on the paper suggesting a clear top coat. Using isopropanol on this top coat gets no colour but on the flat undercoat I do get a slow release of grey colour. The paint shop I went to looked and tested said I had 2k but does this sound more like cellulose and clear coat. What do peeps think?

    Thanks
     

    Attached Files:

  2. Dubs

    Dubs Sponsor supporter extraordinaire

    Probably be 2k clear coat. From that pic, it looks like it’s flaking off? I would guess that someone has sprayed clear over the original paint to make it shine, without prepping the old paint.
     
  3. Chrisd

    Chrisd Supporter

    Thanks. Yes the top coat is peeling off but the base coat is natural dull, so I'm still puzzling as to what type of paint it is? I'm slowly doing patch repairs so I'd rather not mix paint types up.
     
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  4. Dubs

    Dubs Sponsor supporter extraordinaire

    Almost certainly 2k. I doubt anyone would use a celly clear coat, as it’s more likely to react than 2k.
     
    Chrisd likes this.
  5. Nothing else goes over synthetic, except synthetic. Maybe test a patch with different paints for reaction.
     
    Chrisd likes this.
  6. Base coats are often 1k as they don't see any wear, then usually 2k clear over. I've seen non metallics clear coated, but from factory its mainly metallics. 1k clear coat goes yellow and doesn't last long.
    If it's peeling then all that will have to go.
    If it's had a lot of unknown paint layers, and there is a maximum thickness recommendation, bare metal is the only sure way. Paint and labour is dear now, so prep mistakes early on kick us hard later.
    Old original Factory paint is usually sound to paint over, but not maybe the vw 1970ies metallics...
     
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  7. Chrisd

    Chrisd Supporter

    Thanks for the advice. The paint does have a few layers in it, starting from the original Daccota Beige to the current assumed base plus clear. The attached picture shows the tailgate part way through prep with some filler layer as well. I've now used a high build primer and based on the recommendation of the paint shop manager, a non isocyanate, premixed 2k (so really a 1k). The paint seems to be adhering well and I'm part way through the base coats. All new skill for me so crossed fingers :)
     

    Attached Files:

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  8. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Very difficult to flat when you have many layers of different paint plus filler that all sand at different rates. Even now it might be quicker to strip the lot off with a poly abrasive disc and do the filler again (preferably one hit covering most of the hatch) so you're sanding just the one type of "stuff". :)
     
  9. Chrisd

    Chrisd Supporter

    Cheers Steve, I've moved in a bit since that photo...here is the primer face with a few more tidying bits still to do round the edges. It took some time, but it is flat :)

    IMG_20220408_143324.jpg

    Edit, should have said this was a week or so ago and I am on to the base coats and sanding.
     
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  10. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Oooh - lovely! I bare metalled all my doors then 2-pac high build which I flatted. - really quick.
    P1010301_zpsdkrmiki3.jpg

    P1010310_zps0ilebc4v.jpg
    The main body was another story - how many repaints had this had!
    P1010115_zpsc438b47e.jpg
     
    Last edited: Apr 24, 2022
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  11. Chrisd

    Chrisd Supporter

    Following my posts on the general 'what have you done' thread, I thought I'd move to this thread which is specific to Sammy.

    https://thelatebay.com/index.php?th...-bay-today-thread.55126/page-977#post-1954669

    A lot of dust later and with a new disc to play with, here are a photos
    of what lurks beneath! The door obviously has had a few knocks and a big dent.

    I'm thinking of taking the paint back up to the swage line if the panel is worth it. I'd rather not get a new skin, but the weekend is here and so I've got a bit of cogitation time. Your thoughts are appreciated.

    IMG_20230317_170303741.jpg
     
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  12. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    I think it depends how you feel.
    Patch up is bound to lead to a fair bit of filler which is time consuming and you don't get access to the inner stuff like with a skin. I should add I've never reskinned a door. I patched up the doors on my first resto and quickly learned it was more cost effective to get rust free imports for £80 at that time.
    Times change though. I think reskinning would be more thorough but also lead to a door that's not carved from filler. Seems like a load of work, but I'd bet it's quicker than patching/filling.
     
  13. Soggz

    Soggz An inquisitive supporter

    ‘£80.00’.:D Happy days
     
  14. Chrisd

    Chrisd Supporter

    That is tempting at £82 from Alan Schofield. I wanted to avoid going above the swage line but let's see ..... must cogitate over a beer or two.
     
  15. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    I know what you're saying, you start with a couple of crusty spots and before you know it...
    Patch it up, I did at least one very similar to yours when I was learning. It came out fine once Id filled the big dent my welding caused that looked like someone smashed it with a football. You can just about see it making itself obvious from sanding that filler, dinner plate size above the "knee".
    DSCF0761.jpg

    Turned out good. It's matt because nobody had told me the secret of spray painting - as thick as you dare.
    DSCF0879.jpg
     
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  16. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Before.
    DSCF0754.jpg DSCF0751.jpg DSCF0752.jpg
     
  17. Chrisd

    Chrisd Supporter

    Crumbs...literally in your case ;)
     
  18. theBusmonkey

    theBusmonkey Sponsor

    Interesting. Devil's advocate here...we knew Chip was full of filler on at least the front panel coz we actually watched the bloke in San Diego drive him into the back of a pick up truck on the day we went to collect him!

    15 years on, that filler had started to crack maybe 3 years ago and I ignored it. Captian Tolley's was my friend for a while.
    Then last year we had him done.
    Perhaps we should have gone for a new front panel, but no.

    I had it pulled out and then skimmed properly and here we are.

    I have no issues with filler repairs to original metal. So long as you've no forever expectations then what's not to like. My experience with new panels is not a lot better than the originals filled..nothing lasts!
     
  19. mikedjames

    mikedjames Supporter

    If you do large sections of panel the welds make hard lines it can crack the filler over the seam with flexing unless the filler is either very thick or you use fibreglass loaded filler .
    And if the panels are panel glued, the glue moves a bit.

    Some parts of the seam across the front of my bus have been refilled three times until I used a wide enough band of fibreglass filler under the usual clay filler.

    And I have a persistent set of cracks from the work done 13 years ago where it was glued..

    Sigh.

    These days my weapon of choice is a carbide burr in a Dremel.fine control,. big teeth dont clog with filler, leaves a rough surface giving a good bond with new filler
     
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  20. Chrisd

    Chrisd Supporter

    Just spent a joyful hour slowly removing some of the glue residue the PO used (along with velcro and a screw) to hold the door seal in place. Oh what joyo_O
     

    Attached Files:

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