Layers of paint and glue in the channel eh? How about glue gun glue - I've seen it all. The door will shut much better with the seal pushed right into the channel like it should be.
Just a thought, and it might seem a bit daunting, but another option would be to remove the skin from the door, repair the rusty bits of the skin and frame, panel beat the dent out, clean up the inside and refit the nicely restored skin to the repaired and zinc primed frame. I've done exactly that with the Ford Pilot bonnet; the doors weren't too bad so I didn't need to go to such lengths. It may not actually be any more work than either filling what you have, or a partial new skin with a long weld.
Cheers John. I'm going to do a bit more excavation some time this week and make a decision. My aim is to have the door back on to be able to use the camper for TE. So my decision may be based on that. A temporary fix is not out of the question, but we all know the habit of temporary fixes outlasting us!
They are all temporary fixes, it just depends on the timescale you are using . That long scrape looks like some of it might knock out, at least enough to reduce the filling. The metal will be a bit stretched but there are ways of dealing with that. Keep us posted
After a day of head scratching and many cups of tea, I think the new skin option is my current favourite. The door skin is fixable, but if I'm going to put the work in, I'd rather do it well and the bottom half of the door skin is very holy and has been dented, stretched and bodged a few times before. So the amount of cutting and filling is swaying me towards a skin job. All windows and locks etc are now out and I hopefully can save some of the trim/felt etc as it's bloody expensive!
My top tip is to use as much of the original felt strips as possible , i found the new ones way too tight on the glass making winding up and down a Hurculean effort . I replaced new with the old and smooth as ... Trims ?? Being careful when you take them off will pay dividends , it`s certainly easy enough to replace the old ones .
Thanks Chris, all of the trims and felt came off well. One of the felt strips was already snapped insitu, but I think the majority is OK. Interesting, even the restoration book says the seals and trims are a slap in the face, cost wise.
All of the spot welds off up to the top of the bulge. So the skin is ready to come off, but I'm not sure where the joint is. Until the new skin arrives, I'm thinking of cutting along the middle of the bulge to separate the skin and allow me to start work on the inside. Any reason why this is a bad idea?
On Major's thread, there is a few images of us re-skinning the cab doors. (If you would like them popping in here for ease of reference, let me know matey)
If you know what page that would help. Having read it previously, I know how comprehensive/ long it is
The skins usually come 2-3 inches up the window surround. There's some pics on my resto thread of when I did mine: https://thelatebay.com/index.php?threads/a-restoration-for-iris.53455/page-30#post-1312043 https://thelatebay.com/index.php?threads/a-restoration-for-iris.53455/page-29
Cheers Jim. The reverse view of the new skin was very helpful. I'd not seen how the skin above the swage bulge fitted to the door. It makes a lot more sense now. I'm about to order the skin from Alan Schofield who j understand to have the best quality.
Just looking at purchasing options and C&C are showing the door skin at £65 plus pp and A Sch at £82 (not sure about postage) . I understand A Sch sell good quality panels but just wanted to ask if C&C are any good?
I can only recommend the schofield skins , fit was as good as it gets but the rest of the bus was wonky ! Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
At the moment, Schofields are the best bet, if there is a choice of quality they will list several at different prices leaving it up to you to make the mistake of ending up with the cheapest one.. With other suppliers you dont know always whose reproduction you are getting as standard.
Mike, as Schofield are only offering one type, that would suggest there is only one type on the market at the moment! I only want to do this once, so the difference in price is not worth getting second quality, I will go for the best I can get...but knowing who has that is the issue. I might do a bit of calling tomorrow.