It definitely fits. There is less flange surface area but when you put the spacer on it makes up for it. No idea what it would do to the linkage at this point but when I'm back from my hols I may have to dig deeper unless someone says not to?
None of the take-offs are in the right place for a balance pipe. Brake servo yes, balance pipe no. Balance pipe needs to be from above the split, not right at the bottom of one or other leg. Maybe bazza has these manifolds and that's why his balance pipe does nowt.
Oh crap. Is there enough material to drill and tap? Not sure why these are always recommended but no word of them not working straight out the box
The holes are never in the right place or if they are...they are always far too small or block the spark plug or something else stupid. Pretty wierd really. I'm no expert but those manifolds fitting locations look intended for fuel injection to me.
They all seem to be tapped in the same location regardless who supplies them. Really strange. Anyone else shed any light?
Simple fix is to link all the balance takeoffs together in a ‘H’ shape all nicely balanced then. I linked the back two takeoffs with the original balance pipe that goes along the bottom of the bulkhead & added a hose linking the front two takeoffs.
Thank you. Makes sense. I found this kit on ebay this morning and made an offer which was accepted. It's not something I will be putting on the bus anytime soon as I'm almost done on my Empi set up and I've no time to go backwards but have this now for the future.
Following the advice in this thread I checked my carbs (Weber 34 icts) and low and behold my setup is not as suggested...which considering the other oddities in my engine rebuild is not surprising! So based in the advice above I should chuck the thick phenolic gasket between the case and the manifold and add a thick one between the manifold and the carb but I've also read about having a thick one between both areas. Any thoughts? I do wonder why the gasket kit includes the case thick gasket as standard and does not include one for the manifold/carb interface?
Think one at the base if you want cooler manifolds.. for fuel injection, thik one at the top for warm manifolds and cooler carbs. None if you dont mind the carb getting hot.... ..can't remember if its sid above anywhere but you can make two smaller thick top ones by cutting up the base one Sent from my SM-T580 using Tapatalk
Thanks and yes it was suggested that it is possible to cut the thick gasket that comes in the kit in half to make two smaller ones for the manifold/carb interface. As the EMPI manifolds I have are shorter than the CB ones, I'm exploring the options as I understand them:- Thick case/manifold gasket = cold starts but avoids getting the manifolds too hot on long journeys or Thin case/ manifold gasket = warms up faster but could get too hot? Both scenarios assume thick gasket between manifold and carb. Bit unsure which route to go and is my understanding correct. PS @Spacecowboyuk, I hope you don't mind my asking these questions here.
For Carb, hot manifold is good for petrol suspension and encouraged. Stock gaskets are metal for a reason. Hot carb itself - no benefit, petrol can evaporate or even boil so is helpful to insulate it from the hot manifold. For FI cold manifold means denser air, the petrol is injected further down so the manifold is insulated from the head.
Thanks, that is what I thought so I think I will try swapping the thick gasket round once the engine is back in and see how it runs.
