Nuts and Bolts

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by Moons, May 23, 2023.

  1. 77 Westy

    77 Westy Supporter

    They must be annealed. And can be several times. :thumbsup:
     
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  2. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Though if you don't, nothing bad happens as long as your exhaust stubs are level and true.
     
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  3. Klunk72

    Klunk72 Supporter

    Sorry for the lack of detail :D The bolts were off the inner cv joint where it bolts to the gearbox. I get paranoid these days with stretch bolts and always renew them when Elsawin tells me to :oops: Doesn't stop me getting a remap which leads me to converting to a 6 speed box with a bigger clutch though :p
     
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  4. Soggz

    Soggz Supporter

    Well…I can’t really see a difference, then…
     
  5. 77 Westy

    77 Westy Supporter

    Nothing catastrophic happens but it's so easy to do, takes minutes, even in the bus and reduces the risk of an exhaust leak. Even though my HX stubs are level and true I always anneal the copper joints, same with the sump drain plug joint or anywhere else where copper is used as a seal.
     
  6. 77 Westy

    77 Westy Supporter

    Look at the threads, not the length of the bolt. The threads don't line up.
     
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  7. Skyelectrix

    Skyelectrix Supporter

    What heat source do you use for annealing these days?
     
  8. docjohn

    docjohn Supporter

    Not sure what you're expecting to see. The permanent stretch is of the order of 0.1mm to 0.2mm. You could spot this with the new and old bolts side by side and you'd see a slight difference in pitch over the whole length of the bolt.
     
  9. 77 Westy

    77 Westy Supporter

    I use a blowlamp, a gas cooker flame will do just as well.
     
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  10. Moons

    Moons Supporter

    Rang the supplier to order 2 new bolts - he said they should be in the kit - if I pop down he'll give me two and the caps!!


    I duly popped down, got home, thought I'd put them in the packs ready.


    Bolts are in the packs that I did check, admittedly a couple of weeks ago. I am losing my marbles.


    Guess whose off to return the bolts from yesterday to the supplier!!
     
  11. Soggz

    Soggz Supporter

    Don’t worry, got it now. Wasn’t looking properly at the threads overlapping…
     
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  12. Agreed , used to do mi Bonnie ones on the gas cooker - perfect ring size to get a good even heat distribution

    Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
     
  13. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Heh, I had the same initial reaction as you, but obviously he wouldn't post such a useless photo if that was the idea so I engaged my brain. ;)
     
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  14. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    My calor powered one is useless but everyone has a plumbing torch? Or probably 2 or 3 as you can never find them. I couldn't find either of mine on a small boat so I did a half arzed job on the cooker. I say it makes no difference anyway, I've done the cherry red/slow cool, the cherry red quench and the only time I've seen a mark or any deformity is when the HX has been loose and chattered away at it or it was fitted squiffy. What's their purpose really? They're more like a sacrificial extension to the exhaust port for the heavy steel HX to bash into and damage if something goes wrong.

    It's a fun thing to do though and cleans 'em up nice. :)
     
    docjohn likes this.
  15. They are just massively over torqued . Stretch bolts and normal high tensile bolts are different. A normal bolt ( CV bolt for example) with only stretch a tiny amount then return when loosened otherwise it won’t come out the tapped hole .
     
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  16. Soggz

    Soggz Supporter

    Mine has been elsewhere sorting other peoples problems out. It’s back in,now…:p:D
     
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  17. Klunk72

    Klunk72 Supporter

    The 'stretched' bolt was the original Skoda bolt it my Yeti. They are in fact stretch bolts which have a 'normal' torque value followed by an angular torque setting. Must be a 'newer' thing as I'm sure the Bay bolts are re-usable :confused:
     

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