Hi all I am going subaru after a few years of threatening to then waiting then threatening too its finally happening Engine and loom are sorted I know where I am getting my adapter plate from I know what rad pack I am getting I know what exhaust I need I am now just looking at little bits First little problem is the fuel return As mine is a type4 1800 twin carb I don't Have one I don't really want to swap the tank for fi one as it is only a 6 or so years old It's one of them funny ones with the outlet then just above that there a 22mm bolt head does anyone know if I can get A some sort of outlet adapter for this
Good luck with the conversion @lowie, I guess not keeping up with @MorkC68 pushed you over to the dark side
It's been a long time coming but couldn't get it past the finance director but after travelling down to techenders finance was given lol
Was thinking something like this if I can guess the right size to fit the bolt on under my tank https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/303906296314
@pkrboo @pgtips Took this from matt s build thread Did this work out "The beaded straights are these http://www.autosiliconehoses.com/cu...8mm-choose-your-length-end-bead-optional.html I ordered (all beaded) 38mm - Custom Alloy Straight Hose Joiner - 950mm AHJ 950 038 1 38mm - Custom Alloy Straight Hose Joiner - 300mm AHJ 300 038 2 38mm - Custom Alloy Straight Hose Joiner - 600mm AHJ 600 038 2 38mm - Custom Alloy Straight Hose Joiner - 250mm AHJ 250 038 1 All the rubber bends on ebay were about £7.50 From water pump side, in sequence water pump to > straight rubber hose appx 110cm > 38/38/25 alloy T piece > 90 deg rubber bend > alloy beaded straight > 45 deg rubber bend x 2 over axle > alloy long straight > 38mm rubber pipe join 20cm long or use 45 deg above > alloy long straight > into the 90 deg rad reducer (on earlier pkrboo parts list for RJES rad) Pump Side underneath shot long straight above engine support bar and above drive shaft can squeeze above axle where rear heater cable would have gone (I cut mine out for more room, you can just see it on the left and petrol filter is above out the way) another angle coming out with 45 deg bend ...................final 2 pics in next post as limit of 10 images per post Other side Engine> > 90 deg rubber bend > 38/38/16 npt T piece > 90 deg bend > alloy small straight > 90 deg rubber > alloy small straight (tbc/not bought yet but possible use an offcut or appx 120cm) > 90 deg rubber bend > alloy long straight > 38mm rubber pipe join 20cm long > alloy smaller straight > into the 90 deg rad reducer non pump side looking back to the engine 2 90deg elbows with small straight and longer straight couldn't get between axle and body on this side then finally into the rad PG Heater matrix host 16 mm is not shown." Also may be able to get the aluminium tube from work (covert ordering) but it won't be beaded Doest it matter to much ?
Hi, the heater matrix is hidden inside the rad so in truth nothing to show , it sits really nicely in the gap thats left. yes pretty much, I had odd bits here and there but its a case of building most of the jigsaw then getting your head around whats left which is much easier when most of it is done. I would get beading, its a little extra secure to avoid popping pipes, also 110% get decent jubilee clips, I had some iffy ones which were pointless. Oh and off ebay I got a burp kit, cost £12 i think i mentioned it somewhere but extremely useful. PG
I am not intending to run a heater as I've got a diesel heater so do I just make a loop for the heater circuit
Fuel return - this is what I got https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Moroso-6...-/361170179155?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286
I'd probably go the bit and add the heater, it'll run through your existing ducts so can be used for screen etc, might save firing up the diesel one.
Crikey Chief (Think Dangermouse) I was glad I was sat down when I followed that link. I'm hoping to find a cheaper option.
In the grand scheme of things not that bad. I believe fellows drill and weld in a barb to the metal fuel inlet pipe.
I'm thinking drill and bolt a barb with a fibre washer, possibly up the top so it isn't immersed in petrol all the time. Still thinking currently.
I am thinking that this might work for me as I've got that spare bit on my tank (see my first post ) https://www.alanhschofield.com/ourparts/prod_2401364-Fuel-Tank-Outlet-Kit-113298221.html
It's more of a cost thing really as the heater are 100 /140 and pipework etc Although the extra coolant flowing around would be good
Tbh I would go with the most elegant solution, which is fitting a new fuel injection fuel tank. It means you have a brand new worry free tank and a feed and return line and its all as it should be. Sent from my Pixel 4 using Tapatalk
