Hard to remember now but there was a lot to sort out in there: -Getting lights working -Wire tidying -Fuel Vapour System -Tinware -General cleaning up I was trying to use it as much as possible in between everything. Preferred it all just disconnected and out the way. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
You should be able to turn the engine with a spanner but you will feel resistance with the compression. If you can’t turn the engine with a spanner somthings up
“...used in anger...” ha ha Probably all the wiring should be changed - I think a fib was told when the advert said “All rewired”!! Along with a dozen other lies and omission of truths. I’ll take a closer look for crud n corrosion but it didn’t look too bad to my untrained eye - possibly pitted on the left. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Nut turns, with force, but nothing else. Maybe that’s the problem. Something else ceased up not allowing the Starter Motor to work. Maybe buggered the old one Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Another possible reason for grinding might be if you somehow got the new starter to wedge in the hole so it didnt go straight. Then the grinding is misaligned teeth. Careful tapping with a rubber mallet on the body of the solenoid (where the connections go) might help seat it in. To give an idea of perfomance of a stock starter, mine flashes up 250-300 rpm or 4-5 rotations a second on the digital rev counter as the engine fires. And it should be possible to turn the engine by hand with a spanner on the big nut. Hard work but not impossible..
Remove the starter motor in case it’s jammed on the flywheel some how Remove the spark plugs so there’s no compression in the cylinders Then try turning the engine over with a spanner It should turn relatively easy If it doesn’t then something is seizing the engine up
Missallignment of starter makes a massive difference. I had an engine on a stand with a starter motor bracket for 'bench' testing.. engine would barely move.. but it was fresh and quite hard by hand. Got the right allignment with a gearbox and it was night and day different to spin speed.. those starters have a fair bit of strength in them. Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
Taken Spark Plugs out. All look, to my untrained eye against a chart, to be “Carbon Fouled”. Still can’t turn the bottom crankshaft Mechanic wanted me to also take the pulley off and try turning the Alternator, in case that is stuck. Does that entail removing this big nut, then just belt off and try turning by hand? I’ve got a bad feeling that my life is about to be destroyed, on top of previously being ruined. Good news is that there is nothing wrong with the new Starter Motor Throw is a match to the old. On a bench test it was silent...no horrendous noise. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Try just turning with a spanner as it is. Then could undo nut which will loosen the belt an try turn via the half of the pulley still on the alt shaft.
Well that turned quite readily i’d say. Thanks Zedders. As I turned the nut the belt picked up a little bit of slack, but then the Alt continued to turn independently. So it seems the crankshaft could be stuck. Just don’t know how hard to try. Nut is on pretty firm now. I’d be almost at the point of using leverage to turn any harder. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
If by pressing on the belt to stop it slipping you can't turn the engine clockwise with a spanner on the alternator pulley, either it's in gear or the engine has a problem. To be sure it isn't just compression, take the pugs out. If it then turns easily - very easily as it should - spin it plugs out on the starter. If it spins fast, you probably have a bad elec connection. If you don't get that far it's internal engine. IMO.
Engine problem then. Plugs were already out. It’s in neutral - unless the gear stick isn’t actually putting it in neutral. Holding the belt and turning the alternator leads to the belt just slipping round the crank pulley. Since I can’t turn it round I can’t check the flywheel for wear & tear - that was the last suggestion by the mechanics. Interesting idea about running it off the starter motor without the plugs as a check. But I guess i’m not at that stage now. Think i’ve done all that I can Thank you. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
So with the plugs out you can’t turn the engine directly from the crank pulley? With it in neutral can you push the bus forwards/backwards?
Yep, can’t turn the engine with plugs out and in neutral. Can push it back and forth easily though So guess that means it is indeed in neutral. Slight soft grinding noise as I push. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Feel for you .. I think it’s time to drop engine and see what’s going on . If it was running before ok prior to starter issues then it’s a hard one to call . Could be flywheel related or something has fallen in .. should turn easy with spanner with no spark plugs .. drop motor before any more damage is done
Thanks...needing the love! ha ha Can’t think how anything could fall in though. After it stopped starting (an interesting statement) I changed the Oil Sensor (was on the list) but barely screwed it in, as read it can easily go on too tight (tapered kind) and best practice was to run it a bit and tighten to stop any leaks. That’s all i’ve done and I was very careful. I didn’t get as far as trying it though because it never fired up again; and we’ve gone on this long Starter Motor saga Maybe the engine itself ruined the old one. Totally agree though, I don’t want to do any more damage so will have to leave it be until I can get the roof on and get it to a mechanic. Just wondering if I should give up though. Prior to this the engine was the only good thing about it! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
it difficult to remote diagnostic your problem . It maybe simple it may not . Ideally you want someone who knows aircooled to come and have a look . Where abouts are you ? Hopefully someone close that can pop over
Yes, very difficult to remotely diagnose...I appreciate that, and all the help & advice so far Since it worked fine, then suddenly didn’t, i’m still hopeful for a solution. I’m in Cranleigh, Surrey - don’t think any Late Bayers anywhere reasonably near. I’ll speak with local mechanics again when next in town - at least they are only 3miles away and would likely come and look. Will also give my aircooled mechanics a call (who are in Birmingham - don’t rate my chances of pushing it that far ). Cheers. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Yes, probably. It’s in a garage. But all the TLBayers in the world couldn’t remotely talk me through that process and anything beyond My strong points seem to be design & research ha ha it all goes horribly wrong beyond that. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
