I’m having to sand back the previous painting I did It’s had some reactions I think with where the deox gel had dribbled down the panel. The paint had also bloomed from being too cold when it was curing.
Not really. It’s very dry in the garage. I’ve got various pieces of unpainted metal with no signs of rust. Don’t think it’s heat transfer from preparation underneath as the other side is ok. The discolouration is just dust I left so the bubbles are more visible in a photo. A bit disconcerting considering everything has been prepared and executed in the same way and this area was to be sealed up and not stressed over for a decade. I’m glad you know the cause of yours to rectify. www.transmission610.com
Rustoleum style paint forming a cured skin while solvents are still coming off layers underneath. Go slower ?
I’ve got the rear corner and the side panel painted again. Fingers crossed the temperature doesn’t drop too much tonight.
I’ve popped by the workshop today The paint hasn’t bloomed overnight thank god. So in readiness for working on the next panel I’ve removed the louvred window and surprisingly there’s very minimal bubbling below the seal but I’ll still be stripping it back to bare steel.
Got the rear side window back in today Then had an absolute nightmare trying to fit the rear hatch Even at the limits of the adjustment available It seems the hatch is twisted in the hole It’s as if something has changed in one of the hinges One side is tearing the seal and catching on the bodywork chipping the paint off and the other side is too low down Has anyone else encountered this problem after having the hatch removed for a long period of time? I’m at my wits end with it!
Quick answer - yes. open door a and shove with all your might. Slow answer - if the bolts aren't done up pretty tight what you see isn't what you get, but I'm sure you tried that so failing finding a problem with the hinge mechanism there's nowt left but violence. There are so many possibilities for adjustment with those hinges, it can take some patience though. Earlies had it right with the centring wedges halfway down the sides!
As Zed said if you don’t really tighten it it’s very easy for the angle of the hinge to change as you try and close it. I made this mistake and it took me an age to twig that it was shifting as I closed it Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I’ve got a similar issue with mine. I think it will eventually sit right, but only if 3 people are fitting it - one each side and a viewer. Are you trying on your own? I’ve tried on my own, cracked paint like you, and couldn’t line it up properly. In a garage still so not an issue. Violence for another day!
I’ve a feeling the hinge mount or arm may have moved/ bent when ive let it fly up with no hatch on. When we first tried fitting the hatch When looking at the rear of the van the left hand hinge wouldn’t meet the hatch There was a fair gap. So we bolted that side first in the hope that using the hatch as leverage we could get it to meet up on the other side and it would pull it all straight. That didn’t work so I pulled the left hand side hinge in a bit with a bit of tube over the hinge arm. So now with a bit of persuasion I can fit the hatch but it’s too high up up the left hand side. I’ve tried every manner of combinations I could think of to try and manipulate it into shape with no success. It used to fit ok so something has changed And it can only be the hinges so it seems I’m going to have to get more brutal with them
The later type like yours - the white one, has some wear points and soft brass inserts and is probably quite bendable. It wouldn't take much up that end to amplify into a bad fitting door - I think your clue is in the trouble you had attaching the door - I've always managed fine on my own balancing the door on top of the hinges and holding it up while I got the screws in.
