Just double-nut the stud out - lock two nuts against each other and crank away. Avoid stud extractors.
This It should unscrew relatively easily. Take the starter motor off, put two nuts on the stud, and tighten them together, and then unscrew using a spanner on the bottom nut
Stop buying things! Mark the stud with paint, at the surface, to provide a depth reference then use the lock nut as above. Stud extractors are for rusted in studs, that one will come out fairly easily. Then when its removed the length of the stud below the paint plus the thickness of the flange tells you the longest bolt you can use and the thickness of the starter flange determines the depth of any unthreaded shoulder on the bolt. It needs to go as far in as possible but NOT bottom out, or when you tighten it up you will risk stripping the thread in the soft engine casting .. certainly much more than the 3 turns minimum for a steel nut or insert. Think more like 10 turns.. Then do it up tight but not really tight, its not holding the engine on just the starter motor. You could use loctite to make sure it stays put without having to really torque it up.. I once had a panic moment using socket head bolts on an oil pump, where stock has studs.. Each time a steel bolt goes into an AS41 engine case, it damages the thread, why studs are used for things you remove "frequently". The bolts provided by CB left one of the threads going in about 10mm.. I tightened it up to 18 ft lb ish as it had to stop oil pressure.. and the thread stripped on the case. Fortunately there was still another 5mm of fresh thread deep inside so a longer bolt saved me. I abandoned that engine before the wear on the "new" thread became an issue.
This is very frustrating for you. It should be just fit & forget, like mine. It looks like you’ve got an RAC491: But the D-Bolt/Stud plate is orientated like an RAC525: Which is shaved down to accommodate the nut. The 525 isn’t for a 2L engine though (which I think you have), yet the 491 (for 2L) isn’t for a VW (they state only BMW). So have you got a hybrid of the 2 products that doesn’t attach because this part also needs to be like the 525? They should sort that for you, since it doesn’t fit as expected. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Mm, maybe that this is is an RAC491, I’ll pull it out for inspection and comparison. I could be even further in the doodoo now if you’re right: the RAC525 is not quoted for the 2 litre engine! But of course I needed this to accommodate the 3 rib gear box/bell housing. I’ve sent Powerlite an email asking if this was definitely a 525 so I’m waiting for their reply when they are back in the office not sure what starter to even ask them off now. They make 431 for 2 litre and I had this but pinion was too long for 3 rib. So I got 525 (which may not even be a 525 anyway) and this is not quoted for 2 litre
The difference is almost certainly only the throw. As you have the shorter bell housing you need the shorter throw one which will not say it's suitable for 2L because 2L came attached to deeper bell housing gearboxes. It's not them that are wrong, it's your Frankenstein engine/flywheel/gearbox that will never match up to standard recommendations because it's not standard.
I agree. I'd have got the Dremel out by now and clearanced that flange. Only needs a dadge off to allow for the jaws of the spanner. Hybrid is a kinder description than Frankenstein Zedders..
Oh sorry, misunderstanding there, I thought you meant dremel new holes in the face place in a better position for the Allen bolts. so dremel away the wall of the motor where the constriction is? Yep, sounds like a great plan I got one of these too. You can probably appreciate I need to wait for reply from Powerlite to confirm if this actually an RAC525 before it start any mods that would affect a return though. Xmas delay of course here.
Thanks for everyone’s help here. Lots of great ideas to overcome issue. Allen bolt or dremel would work fine, but I’ve got to wait for Powerlite reply to confirm model type as it certainly doesn’t look like Panzer’s 525. Can’t make any mods before I know what the motor is - returns etc
Hybrid is a better word, and they’re not uncommon if the box has been changed. I’ve got a Late (CU) bellhousing with a CE box.
Ah well, bit of a saga, but this should fettle it. Got tired of waiting for a reply from Powerlite. So Allen bolt for stud. Motor’s definitely got RAC525 stamped on it so must be the new specially designed for difficult fitting model
Ah well - the post that just keeps on giving . After all that’s gone on, Powerlite got back to me after their Xmas break. Without me even asking they sent another RAC525. It’s slightly different and the bottom bolt has 3mm more clearance. Fits a treat even with the 17mm nut. Clearance like @PanZer . By the way, none of these motors are special adaptations, just different production the same model. I’m returning the ‘odd’ starter. bit of a frustration that one, but totally fixed now
They had a quiet word with Fred in a Shed and asked him to drill the fixing plate holes in the right place or else.
Sorry, yes, it all went in straight away! Tightened up easily , wizzes round and starts with confidence. All fixed .
