Pushrod tube replacement (type 4)

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by 62 deluxe, Jan 1, 2022.

  1. Due to one side leaking decided to replace the tubes as they are a little battered. Any recommendations on best replacements (but not the csp ones @ £35 each!). Also noticed the polished area on the rods - is this due to the tubes?
     

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  2. davidoft

    davidoft Sponsor

    It does look like they’ve been rubbing, I have some new spares, pm me if you’re interested
     
    62 deluxe likes this.
  3. The shiny bit on the push-rod is due to incorrect spring installation (spring that holds the tubes)
     
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  4. Type 4 mate, no springs - sorry, forgot about the retainer
     
    Last edited: Jan 1, 2022
  5. davidoft

    davidoft Sponsor

    type 4 has “springs” that hold the push rod tubes down to stop them popping out , it’s like a bent piece of wire
     
    62 deluxe likes this.
  6. ^this
     
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  7. The retaining Spring was installed as per bently, to be honest, the amount of force I had to use to get the old ones out, the spring was merely there for decoration lol
     
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  8. I always think that too but always fit em back in place! They are quite tight if you get them bang on but it’s A poor idea!
     
    62 deluxe likes this.
  9. 77 Westy

    77 Westy Supporter

    It looks like the retaining spring was installed inside the tube instead of on the end. Standard tubes are fine or stainless if you want to be posh.
     
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  10. I did have a set of genuine ones on the engine originally and they were so much better quality than the repros, but they corroded so were replaced with these repros.
     
  11. The billet aluminium ones are the best . CSP or stateside .. or replate a set of original ones
     
    62 deluxe likes this.
  12. 77 Westy

    77 Westy Supporter

    Machined aluminium tubes might be the best but are really unnecessary. And CSP are the only ones available AFAIK, I doubt if Stateside make them.

    Stainless steel might be better but what’s wrong with the ordinary repro tubes?
     
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  13. That was my real question, whether any particular repro ones were better or are they all made in the same factory in China? I have no experience of stainless ones if they are better quality/stronger. As you say, the billet are overkill and at £280 far too much.
     
  14. 77 Westy

    77 Westy Supporter

    The market for Type 4 pushrod tubes is pretty small worldwide and I wouldn’t expect there to be many companies investing in tooling up for limited sales, but I have no idea whether they all come from the same factory.

    Although I normally avoid JK, their made in Malaysia stainless steel ‘Preservation Parts’ might be better quality. https://www.justkampers.com/0211093...-2000cc-vw-t2-1971-1979-vw-t25-1979-1983.html
     
    62 deluxe likes this.
  15. When i worked for an automotive aircon company we purchased stainless hose fittings from a company in Malaysia. The quality was outstanding and so was the price.
    I did get chance to visit the manufacturer and must say the workmanship and attention to detail was unbelievably good.
    Not saying some Chinese stuff aint good, but i can definitely recommend Malaysian manufacturing. :thumbsup:
     
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  16. MorkC68

    MorkC68 Administrator

    They look like the one I fitted to Gusbus way back & they have been absolutely fine all those years.
     
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  17. I have a sneaky feeling Mr Raby uses re-plated original ones . The one repo set I used were crap supplied by C&C and I swopped out for original . I think there are a few makers of billet alloy ones . Pretty much anyone with a CNC lathe can knock these out with no special tooling . The ally style allow a bit more clearance
     
    62 deluxe likes this.
  18. I’ve bought some repros from Davidoft, thanks mate plus some s/s ones from JK, cheers 77 westy. Then I have a spare set and can compare the quality. I’ll let you know how they compare!
     
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  19. mcswiggs

    mcswiggs Supporter

    I bought a couple of new tubes from Schofields recently to attempt to sort out a persistent seepage on No 4.

    Now, for me Schofields are easily the finest supplier of parts in the market, but the tubes I bought weren’t great; I managed to crush one very easily trying to grip it during waggling-into-place stage. It was very flimsy, much more so than original, and about 1mm shorter.

    I ended up abandoning the job for another day and putting the old tube back and hoping that a new Vitron seal would stem the leak, which it didn’t…
     
    Last edited: Jan 3, 2022
    Chrisd and 62 deluxe like this.
  20. Oh no! I’ll post my findings, hopefully may help!
     
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