Putting a new floor in the back

I might just finally be getting around to thinking about considering starting on my interior. I don't see the point in the thick insulating stuff on the floor (I'm not a cold weather camper anyway). I was going to put 9mm ply on the lowest part of the floor to bring it up level and 3mm over the whole floor. I don't want the board straight on the metal floor so thought about the 2mm white foam stuff that's used under laminate flooring? Has anyone tried this? Think it'll be ok?

 

I put down a layer of the silver "bubble" insulation, with ply over the top. Been fine so far.

 

I don't want to stick it down on the cargo floor and thought the foam might work. I don't think it would hold water? Just want to stop the ply boards rattling.

 

The insulation just has a few strips of tape holding it in position. The ply holds it down. I wouldn't use anything that could soak up moisture. Strip flooring goes over the ply.

 

If you use flooring based on essentilally vinyl sheet e.g. Flotex "carpet" on top then water gets less chance of getting into whatever layers of flooring you put down.
If you use vinyl squares then you leave lots of gaps to let damp into the ply on top.

If your van floor is well painted with e.g. Hammerite or POR15 or Raptor ; something that forms a continuous sheet of plastic then it will only tend to rot through from the road side underneath..

 

Another vote for foil bubble insulation with just the joins taped. Closed cell foam would be okay too but if you have to buy one or the other you might has well have the insulation.

 

OK so which tape is best and won't peel off like the cheap parcel tape?

 

I used double-sided carpet tape and Duck tape on the joins.

 

Thank you

 

I use aluminium foil tape. https://www.screwfix.com/c/sealants...anagedredirect-_-sealantsadhesives-_-foiltape

 

I seem to be unable to remember what i used to do this job only 5years ago.

 

I have this since 12 years and it's still fine. Less for isolation - more against noise.
Before that foam, the painted metal is properly protected against rust with underbody protection wax (also because of condensation or tipping pots/drinks).
Above this a screen printing plate (did not know the correct translation, plywood which cannot absorb any moisture), then furniture mounted and then carpet for warm feet in the morning.

The plywood plate was fixed by screws of the furniture and a aluminum exit strip.
Carpet could be replaced without dismounting the furniture.


(the air outlet is for warm air from the bus models - and aluminum exit strip also from Bus L models - Westfalia used plastic there)

regards,

 

Does anyone have a link to the thinnest foil bubble insulation without self adhesive please?

 

Got mine from Homebase, I think. It's not that thick, maybe 5mm. Need to put some bitumen sheet on the big panels first to stop them drumming.

 

This sort of stuff?
https://www.toolstation.com/ybs-general-purpose-thermawrap-insulation/p90532

 

That's what I used.

 

There's a danger of a trip out tomorrow to buy the insulation and plywood!

 

Yep. Tends to stay down by itself. I put sheets of it on the side panels and behind the front panel as well. And the cab doors. Bays lose a lot of heat!

 

All that^ and the sliding door, rear hatch and cab roof – the interior light needs to be insulated or it will spark on the bubble foil.

 

...and don't forget to put your bitumen sheet on first, stop the panels drumming.