Hi All, The heating on our bus (1979 - 1970cc) doesn't work. The previous owner said that the heating cables were seized but that's not the half of it. Today I spent a small fortune at Schofields buying heat exchanger elbows (both missing), heater control pods (both missing), new cables, clamp kits, gators... you get the idea! Thankfully the heat exchangers are both present. The fan in the engine bay is there too and I have bought left and right hoses to connect it up. However... it appears that the left hand side connects to a round hole, the right hand side is an oval hole. Do I need connectors to connect the hoses to the engine? I've attached a very old photo from the previous owner and put arrows where I think the connectors must be. Needless to say, they are no longer present. Any thoughts? Part numbers would be ideal if you know.
Connect them to the round and oval stubs just sticking up through the tin. The plastic duct on your right arrow is FI only. There wasn't one on the left even for FI.
Yup, the left is round but on the right is a shaped oval joining piece made of plastic for fi You can see it here in this shot. No idea of part number but try VW Zap7 if it's important. Just connect them direct in the meantime...
That Zap7 site is amazing. Thanks for posting it. It doesn't look like the plastic connector is available anymore, but the replacement hose has an oval end. I've just had another look at the Schofields part and one end is oval. Phew! Zap7 seems to suggest you can get an oval strap clamp, but I'll give a standard clamp a go first.
That's correct for carbs. Forget the plastic bit. Yes, nice to have the correct oval clamp but as you say, bending a round one will work.
In my experience the snail fan doesn’t add much significant flow, most of the heat flow comes from the main engine fan, so controlled by engine rpm
I did mine but it was a type 1. It worked too well but always had a faint smell of exhaust that I couldn’t cure so I never put it on unless I was freezing
if the h/ex are genuine and you have no leaks then you should get some proper heat. if this has all been disconnected then suggest you also check all the way through thepipework under the bus through to and up into the dash to check there are no blockages or leaks. get it tested just by cable tie-ing the elbows in the "on" position for now rather than worrying about the cables for now would be my suggestion. once you've got good heat then connect the cables up (or replace if they are dodgy).
And of course the more you thrash the engine, the more heat generated - if you drive like grandma you probably won't be very warm.
It’s probably still v hot at the HX but the increased air flow might be why it feels warmer maybe ear extenders might help?
The harder you drive, the more petrol you burn, the more heat generated? It's not just the revs but yes more revs blows more through. Just my experience. My 1600 with OG HXs generated so much heat I had to turn it down, I put it down to needing your foot into it to make it go. My 2.4 with OG HXs the heating was pathetic - I put that down to hardly using any throttle in general. Revs pretty much the same.
Difficult to be precise as it’s probably difficult to measure the heat output from an HX while its travelling. I did disconnect my pipes from the heat x and tested the heat output on normal revs and it was v hot but I lost most of it at the Totem when I reconnected it so I replaced and sealed every part. Then I got lots of heat and definitely more air flow as I increased speed not sure how much warmer it was but pretty certain your thoughts on it equate to higher temperatures.
