What can I use to flush/clean inside of box after we have drained oil. Drained oil and have what appears metal residue in old oil. Sent from my SM-A127F using Tapatalk
Is the residue silver or golden ? If the metal is golden, then its a bushing and you may need more than just new oil, as eventually you run out of adjustment as the bushing wears away. You can use something like white spirit. If you want to look inside, and you can shift the bolts holding the side cover on without them shearing, the adjuster screw is attached to the output shaft so you have to turn it clockwise to get the screw to wind into the cover, so the cover will lift off. Otherwise the shaft comes with the side cover.
Residue is bushings maybe but changed oil years ago and just tipped old out and new in without flushing Sent from my SM-A127F using Tapatalk
Undo things. It comes apart. Just bear in mind the adjuster screw you can see poking out of the output shaft - its held in with a circlip, so it stays attached. This is badly worn and no longer adjustable.. It was the source of the lovely golden glitter in the oil. As you adjust it, another step wears in the side of the hole and then it wobbles again. You would need to find an engineering shop to mill out a hole with clearance for pushing in a new bushing ... this original one is cast into the side cover. Did mine by eye with a Dremel and some digital calipers over an afternoon back in 2016, since put 50k miles on it.. With a PTFE loaded steel backed bushing, its slightly springy and has not needed adjustment since.
Remove Pittman arm , remove box and start taking it apart ... Can't remember the strip sequence but it certainly wasn't difficult and will become apparent when you've got it in your hand ... Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
Don't refill with grease (it suspends any metallic particles and turns them into grinding paste) use the correct oil
I don't know if it's the late or early boxes or both, but ISTR that the ball bearing are loose in the races and it's easy to lose them?
Only having done a late i can say 100% the balls are captive in the race ..BUT ... They're apparently unobtanium if the cage has broken - @snotty ?? @KeithH used to do the seal kit but I think he's run out , I just got numbers from the seals and bought them on eBay. Easy enough job , crack on !! Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
I recall they're captive in the cage. I don't think you can get replacements if the cage is bust, but it's unlikely to be. Somewhere in't garage I've got one of the seals. I'll have a measure. It's a standard part.
Output shaft seal- 28x38x7, worm shaft seal - 22x32x7 https://thelatebay.com/index.php?threads/steering-box-seal-replacement.6260/page-2#post-1444065
Here's a pic of my Keith seal kit. Main seal sizes as above, both single lip. O-ring if needed is 15/10/2mm. I think he sourced the pointer cap from a Land Rover.
Cheers read that and make a note of seals, local suppliers stock them but we had to put steering box back on too move camper again. Will have a look and order parts... Sent from my SM-A127F using Tapatalk
Crack on!! got engine to put back together, refit all gear linkages, refit gearbox and engine then sort steering side of things. Plus work +60 hours per week....... Sent from my SM-A127F using Tapatalk
So flushing out / rebuilding the steering box is way down on your wish list then ? Ah well , a bit of swarf in the oil is normal as it's probably never been touched since the factory bolted it on and really not a drama . Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk