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Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by MrDavo, Oct 25, 2022.

  1. mikedjames

    mikedjames Supporter

    Yes, 4mm2 cable with a fuse at both ends.

    I use a ratchet crimper tool as the yellow crimp connector style takes 4mm2 with a hefty squeeze.
     
  2. Tube crimps are your best mates for hefty cable. And midi fuses and fuse holders :thumbsup:

    a newy4 lbatt 1 6s.jpg

    a newy4 lbatt 2 6s.jpg

    If you've got something like a CTEK battery charger, you can connect the charging lead to the leisure battery side. As the charger raises the charging voltage, the VSR will trigger and connect both batteries together, so you charge both at once :thumbsup:
     
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  3. Normal yellow crimps are tubes too. The difference is only that the yellow ones have insulation.
    You just need to make sure you use the correct crimper for the type you choose, as an "insulated lug" crimper won't crimp an uninsulated lug tight enough.
     
  4. Ya need one of these. Not bad crimps for £20, and will do up to a scary 70mm2 :thumbsup:

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/38373833...yzIb7N7MKR/bBetfzBAgbQkRM=|tkp:Bk9SR7Deob2IYQ
     
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  5. Had one once.
    First use it blew past the seals and dumped all the hydraulic oil over me!
    Don't need anything that chunky, if you want to crimp anything bigger than a simple ratchet crimper can handle then get one of these :thumbsup:
    Screenshot_20221104-181445_Chrome.jpg
     
  6. Use that loads at work, and for anything bigger than 50mm cables I'd be looking for a decent quality hydraulic one.
    And they cost more than 20 quid!
    Bigger the cable, bigger the fire if the crimp is loose!
     
    mikedjames likes this.
  7. Obviously don't know your own strength ;)!
     
  8. MrDavo

    MrDavo Supporter

    Luckily my battery leads already had chunky terminals crimped on from being attached to the splitter. I had to delete a lead from the alternator to the splitter but now the VSR is fitted the charging light on the dash still goes out. All seems well, the LED came on to show the batteries as linked. I guess I need to road test it next.
    D8464841-7EE5-4A31-942D-E6857826D0DE.jpeg

    Also I replaced the throttle return spring with a new one off eBay, here’s old and new.
    375FB1CB-728C-422C-A7BC-D0E453EDBD2D.jpeg
    AB790F36-D8E0-496E-BE05-7BBC40A4BEAF.jpeg

    I did oil my balls as suggested by the way, very satisfying.

    The tickover now returns to where it should, again I need to do a road test but the weather is pants today. There’s still an intermittent ‘pop’ in the exhaust it’s more like unburnt fuel igniting than a misfire to my ear. It does bug the carp out of me, it drives fine but shouldn’t do that.

    The next dry day I’m going to try and get the plugs out for a coat of looking at, I have a two part Porsche plug spanner that came in the 911 toolkit, I’m hoping I can get the rear plugs out with that, behind the Webers they look super difficult to get at.
     
    Last edited: Nov 6, 2022
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  9. Can't beat cheap crimpers [​IMG]

    Sent from my SM-A127F using Tapatalk
     
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  10. Personally I don't use an indent crimper on anything bigger than a 6mm insulated, prefer a proper hex crimper for anything carrying larger currents.
     
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  11. I would go for an all-round hex crimper as well :thumbsup:
     
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  12. Yeah same here pity this wasn't the case by other contractors. Probably contributed to loose connection and undersized cables. Oh well keeps us busy.

    Sent from my SM-A127F using Tapatalk
     
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  13. MrDavo

    MrDavo Supporter

    If I may interrupt what has become a cable crimping thread, I still have a fast idle.

    It was nice yesterday so I ventured across the border into Yorkshire for a test drive. All went well but the longer I ran the higher the tickover got.

    It’s not the spring, which I replaced, and there is slack in the cable with no pressure on the pedal. No obvious air leaks, and it did tickover fine on these settings when I got the van, so I am not keen on fiddling with the adjustment.

    That said I’m not sure where to start.
     
  14. mikedjames

    mikedjames Supporter

    You have carburettors without chokes.
    So as the engine warms up it will tend to idle faster as it has less friction from the warmer oil. Maybe a lighter grade of oil, plus deciding whether idling slower when warm can be traded for needing more hassle with cold starting.
    If your throttle plates dont shut fully, the vacuum advance may tend to accelerate the engine at idle in an unstable way.. if it starts low it stays low, but if it decelerates down to idle it may stay high if the throttle is closed. Pull the vacuum advance off and block the hose if you have one, see if the idle speed drops. If it does, then you need to close the throttle plates more and tweak the idle mixture screw..
    Trouble is that back in the day when there was a bigger choice of carburettors, Weber ICTs were regarded as cheap but not very good.

    Like all carburettors, they are more of a compromise than modern fuel injection .. some more of a compromise than others.

    A sticky centrifugal advance can also do this faster/ slower unstable timing advance on an 009 or a 205 SVDA
     
    MrDavo likes this.
  15. issue 2. what carbs. Is idle set on the carbs and the carbs balanced. setting the idle on the cable or throttle mechanism would cause erratic tickover and potentially popping back through carbs (mimicking an intake air leak) but im no expert.
     
  16. mikedjames

    mikedjames Supporter

    If you had to remove the carburettors at any stage then you will almost certainly not have put them back exactly in the same place relative to the linkage so yes , checking balance and maybe adjustment will be needed.
     

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