Type 1 main seals

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by Mattlad, Jan 3, 2022.

  1. a very tame night we had really drinking craft ales and talking rot.

    enjoy the game today then?
     
  2. I’ll need to get the hub nuts off the bug to slam the bejesus out of it when the time comes so all good.
     
  3. You're sorted, then :thumbsup:
     
  4. Baysearcher

    Baysearcher [secret moderator]

    Happy days!
    No. It was shoite!
     
  5. The magic tool turned up earlier so I
    have finally got the flywheel off,

    I noticed the old seal is proud of the casing. Think it’s masa t to be flush or slightly inset…

    259BCCDC-E647-45CA-8002-C66858DE28E2.jpeg


    also one of the shims is busted…

    E83A6B6A-4A1E-4FFA-9645-786DE074553E.jpeg

    And the old oil seal has a definate flat spot on the sealing face


    89AB6D3E-1A08-4CDC-9B6E-33C941973B18.jpeg

    The flywheel doesn’t look too good…


    502B72C6-6AF0-432E-823B-B0E0DF39F463.jpeg

    Should I just get a new flywheel ? It has a distinct wear mark on it.
     
  6. Oops double post…
     
  7. Seal should be flush or slightly below casing. I'd try polishing your flywheel boss with Scotchbrite before binning it - may be ok. How deep is the wear mark?
     
    Mattlad likes this.
  8. I can feel it with my thumb- I’ve not calibrated my thumb however so can’t tell how deep it is. May be I need another tool to measure it!!
     
  9. Give it a scrub with Scotchbrite first. You may be able to position the seal lip so it bears on a fresh bit of flywheel boss.
     
    Mattlad likes this.
  10. So a quick rub shows this groove. Apart from being groovy it’s all nice and
    shiny.

    A0B522B4-E45A-41FA-94ED-39429DB862AC.jpeg

    I guess I need to do some measuring to see if I can get the seal to sit not in the groove.
     
  11. If you want to sacrifice a seal as an experiment, you may be able to position it so it bears on a fresh surface. Getting the seal in as far as it will go might work. As mentioned, the CSP seal tool will shove it right in as far as it will go.

    Worth a try, and cheaper than a new flywheel!
     
    Last edited: Jan 30, 2022
  12. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    ... or... measure from base to lip on the one you have, go on line to seal suppliers and find one that has engineering drawings of every seal. Buy one with that crucial dimension 1.5-2mm less (or more) even if it's not the same overall depth. Bob's your uncle. Worked for me. :)
     
  13. 77 Westy

    77 Westy Supporter

    Mattlad likes this.
  14. As summer is here, thought I had better put this back together.

    As there is no hope of getting the end float within spec what is the best approach to shim some of the movement out?
     
  15. mikedjames

    mikedjames Supporter

    There is enough time to rebuild an engine in the next month or so to do it properly...

    One reason the seal would have been fitted proud is to miss the grooves .. but generally people use thinner seals and push them in further ...


    If you are going to slap it together anyway,
    Dont worry too much - you need a lot of endfloat before things start hitting the sides... And it will leak as the flywheel rattles back and forth too.. Dont overdo the shims or you may grip a wobbly bearing ...
     
    Mattlad likes this.
  16. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    You can't shim out case wear, sorry. Just put the shims you have back where you found them.
     
    snotty and Mattlad like this.
  17. At the rate I get round to fixing things I’d need at least 3 years to rebuild an engine.

    I’ll slap it back together and see what happens!!
     
  18. I will do that. And research a new engine.
     
  19. I’d replace that duff shim!
     
    Mattlad likes this.
  20. I hear you Bruv.
     

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