vw t2 1974 restoration

testing the wheel arch and it looks like the wheel tub concaves it but the top and seam looks only correct at the ends not in the middle. anyone have any suggestions?

 

I don't understand what you mean, but as a general note - you need to fit and adjust a good cab door to what's left of your original bus to have a chance of "testing" the arch fit.

 

thanks that is what I thought as the cab door will determine the gaps. I won't be fitting it for a while any way. I still need to get it soda blasted and do the sills first.

 

This is how I clean the sill of the top hat

 

What I mean is the seam where the wheel hub ends and meets the wheel arch is not even as the blue is good but the red is too far over lap. I don’t know if this is ok but I don’t think I will have an issue as I fitted the door and the gaps are fine on the sides so the a pillar must be fine. The b pillar is only cut bellow the door however the seat holds the top in position. I should probably not worry about doing it now as the sills, floor, threashold, b pillar and b pillar skin and bulk head needs to go in anyway first.

I think I am doing fine now with my repairs as I would say removing the rusted parts and cleaning the spots welds out ect to save the good metal takes more time and is harder then putting in the new panels.

 

They are all like that at first but it'll come good. When you fit it the arch you start at the B post, get that right height and flush then pick a spot where your red is then work your way to the front, aligning with the door each time until you get right to the front where the door will be in the way so you take it off. Then back over it all adding more welds. It will take a bit of forcing into alignment as you go as it'll be trapped on the A pillar the whole time.

 

I get what you are saying making the cab door flush and even gap with the top of the wheel arch however the lines going across don't seem right?

 

That will all straighten out when you try fitting the door.
You'll probably find with the door in place that the arch is sitting too far in at that point and so needs pushing out. I used a scissor jack between the chassis leg and the back of the arch to push it out at that point.
Get the door on and report back as without doing that you're just guessing that it "doesn't seem right".

 

thanks that makes sense i will push it out with the scissor jack.

 

@JamesLey how did you take out the floor section that goes under the back under the fuel tank. I have cut the old one up to the back arch in front of the wheel tubs but just wanted to get your idea of the best way to remove it. Thanks.

 

Are you referring to the section of the cargo floor that sits between the two rear wheel tubs (i.e. not the piece that sits at about 45 degrees and forms the shelf on which the fuel tank sits?).
If so I just cut the cargo floor around the rear wheel tubs and rear edge, and then just ground away the remaining spot welds on the wheel tubs and return lip on that angled piece.

 

yes you are correct, I am referring to the cargo floor section that is between the wheel tubs. the end sections I know is spot welded to the front of the wheel tubs however I was not sure as I think it middle is seam welded to the bottom of the 45 degree floor section underneath the van.

 

Na it's just spot welded to that return, there's very little on these shells that are seam welded.
I had the luxury of the rollover jig so grinding/drilling those spot welds out was easy.

 

Even better. I may just wait to setup the jig.

 

Looking at my two sliding door track what would be the best to do? I was thinking to cut the bottom off the old one and the bottom off the new one to put on the old and keep the track and just re weld it or should I cut the top off?

 

look at what I bought

 

After all that fabrication you did!

 

Well that's annoying. Also, you might want to start thinking out finishing a part of the bus before moving on to other bits. Is the rear all buttoned up now?

 

What a waste of time. what can I do. I don't think I should cut it out and replace it as I think mine is good enough any way. Good to have just for spare and got it cheap as well.

 

the rear I have not touched except for the roof corner. I am getting it ready for soda and sandblasting. After that, I will weld in the sills, b and c pillar bottom sections then the floor. After that I will do the bulkhead and the front wheel arches and rear wheel arches but mainly the left rear panel as it needs a lot of work.

I fell like I have to work my way through and strip it front to middle and then fit off middle to front as one part leads to another part. Once all the body is in I will have to place in all the mechanical, steering, ventilation, electrical, and internal parts. This will take forever.