vw t2 1974 restoration

I don't know the order of doing these full restoration jobs but I thought you need to strip it all out and all the bad panels first and then place all the new panels back. however still do simple isolated panels as you are there to replace them where you don't have to wait for every thing else. I don't know am no expert I am just learning and appreciate all the feedback and advice.

 

Yes. You can see why it's wise to get one with the top 12" in good order so the wet hasn't tracked through everywhere. You can only learn through experience though, you'll get there if you're persistent.
You're right that part of "the next bit" needs stripping to access the bit you're doing, but it is possible to work your way around without stripping out the lot at once.

 

You are right and this is what comes with experience and the professionals like you know and can do for isolated repairs like small sections and minor damage and rust or doing a full restoration in sections.

 

I will look yours up one the late bay. I would say it is a better result than a restoration shop when doing it at home. The question is stopping the rust coming back or forming new. I don't know how long even mine will last after. My plan is with with waxoyle witch is the only preventative and hopefully it lasts for the rest of my days as I am not even 20 yet so I hope I have mine for ever and it is around for ever.

 

@MorkC68 Can you find a link to your restoration please as i cannot ind it and it will be a good one to look up

 

The problem I find with cutting it all out in one go, especially on a vehicle of this size is that a) you end up with a very hole-y vehicle and b) it's easy to forget the specifics of how that panel went and what you need to be doing to make it right. I've been here before and it ended up being quite demotivating especially if it's your first one.

Those front repairs are looking good, mind.

 

Thanks, however I wanted to do this as a full restoration job and have it sand blasted and epoxy between panels. I wanted to only weld in the structure before the blasting like the a-pillar, outrigger, windscreen support and air box to keep the structure. I have been told the B and C pillar can hang but I keep it clamped until the sills go in.

Does mine really seem like a very big job and easy to mess up considering this is my first one?

 

Only you can answer that one. Seems like you're over the hump of cutting without having replacement panels to hand though. And you have a blasting plan. Stick at it.

 

Yes I will start welding in my new panels witch I have all of them after the blasting.

 

Anyone know the best way to remove this first top hat as I don’t know how to take the end off that is on the other side?

 

@JamesLey How did you manage to remove the first top hat so perfectly. I have been sending some time after work this week and it is taken for ever. I have got most of it out without damaging the the cross member and left outrigger. With the new top hat I had to cut the holes for the gear tube and the other conduit at the bottom but I will weld it up later. I know I completely destroyed the middle section of the top hat removing it but since I was removing it and not damaged surrounding metal I think I am going good. The issue is you can only drill out only the back side of the spot welds Only @Zed would off been able to do it as he is more experienced but at-least I am learning. It seems like cutting out metal and preparing the surface has more work involved than fitting new panels and welding it.

 

As I had to replace the cross members, outriggers and sills I had really easy access to it. With those out of the way the only thing really holding it in was the gearshift guide tube and a couple of tacks on the chassis rails.

All of these jobs are about the prep.
You'll spend 90% of your time cutting out the old stuff and getting the new panel to fit; the welding is just a small part of it.

 

Fixed that for you.

 

How easy does it look I have seen photos and videos of the VW Brazil Factory. Everything is all lined up on templates and all placed in jigs. No measuring testing if it fits and trial runs. All just perfect the first go. all parts and panels are pressed and all one part.

I would say however That these kombis are easier to repair and work on then a new van as the panels and the designs are simpler.

 

Will weld through primer be suitable for the inside of the jacking points, under the top hat and on the chassis tail if I clean all this up and spray weld through primer before I weld it together?

 

Trying to line up my sill and track. I will need to repair the track after it first I want to get them in to test it. Should the bottoms be flush?

 

Original. '68.