vw t2 1974 restoration

Thanks, I have rested my track, bottom section where it curves inwards hard down against the top of the inner sill. I know the top needs the threashold to be level with the inner sill as the floor sits above, so I am trying to work it out.

 

Are sliding door cracks repairable ?

 

What can I do with this bottom section of b pillar flange? The curve also look wrong?

 

Transplant time. The middle sill will need a clean up. I know the tab of the inner sill needs to sit even with the tab on the top hat however does the track tab sit slightly before the two tabs? referring to the section of where the L piece sits with the two diagonal holes.

 

Anyone know how far apart the inner and door track sill should be at the top. I know the bottoms clamp together but not sure of the distance between them or does the threshold just touch the side of the inner sill?

 

Here's where mine ended up. As long as the ends line up correctly and the return on the top of the inner sill is in line with the return on the threshold I don't think the gap between the two is critical; it'll just sit wherever it ends up.

 

thanks that looks right

 

is this hard to get wrong? it appears to all fall into place.

 

The real test is how well the door fits. Get it tacked in place and trial for the door.


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last bit of rust to fix for the time being so i can put the inner sill in. This look like a hard one to fix however some idiot has filled it up with plastic bags and black silicone.

 

looks better than before. Can do with some panel beating

 

Tried the inner sill and the sliding door track today. Someone please correct me if i am wrong, the inner sill should sit on the jacking points, hard up against the rear wheel tub and the end flange even with the front top hat. The middle/ sliding door sill should sit on the inner sill and hard up against the top of the threshold so it is just above the inner sill. I think height wise is more important than the side and it can only go one way to the side. I looked good to me so I tried the sliding door and the track seemed two low. To be hones it should not be that hard to get it right as it sits it self it. The only thing I can think of is the track it self to be screwed it higher for now. (screwed it only temporary then it will be plug welded). What can I do if anyone else has any other suggestions? by the way my sliding door had 15mm of a shim under the roller before and now I have removed them all.

Can my whole kombi be wrapped. there has been some accident damage from what i can see on the side from the b pilar all the way to the back light

 

With my front top hat, is it supposed to be flat? When I place a straight edge the ends seem to bee 15mm lower then the centre. The two ends above the outriggers are about 5mm lower then the other top hats next to it? Any ideas?

 

It should be flat and they should all be level.

 

I will have another go at the outrigger. It is only tacked in on the four corners.

 

I have got the sliding door track and sills all in position and riveted on the top hats and b pillar and together. The sliding door just needs some shims under the roller. How much shim is acceptable?

 

1-4 is what the manuals state.


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I think my outrigger is a bit low by 5-10 mm. How did you manage to get yours all even and level when you replaced them all and the top hats? I Put a straight edge on the old top hats and then new one clamped on the new outrigger so I think I have to untack it and raise it a bit

 

Sounds like you did this back to front, you should fit all the floor supports first so they are naturally level and flat, then fit the outriggers to the top hats.
If you have the outrigger height correct at the chassis, perhaps you can bend it up with a jack?

 

As above.
I took out each floor support one by one and tacked the new support in place to the chassis rails. I clamped the new inner sills to the old floor supports so it was easy to get them in the right place as the chassis rails located them vertically and the sills located them on one of the horizontal axis. I just took a measurement between the support I was replacing and the next one along to ensure the other horizontal axis position was correct. Jacking points then just clamped to the floor supports and everything should line up.


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