vw t2 1974 restoration

Discussion in 'Restorations' started by Dean mitropoulos, Mar 13, 2021.

  1. all good. I just want a lasting job to be good behind the paint and what you cannot see. I have just been filling up screw holes, trim holes making the corner roof strengthener section, small windows lip repairs... . what will make all the difference is when the a pillar goes in and the sills. the I can chip away slowly at the floor and the side panel. just doing it slowly. Looking into show room finish, they actually put bog on the chasssis to make it look flat. This make me throw up. not looking for this. just a good quality lasting job.
     
    scrooge95 likes this.
  2. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Which is it? Dean, you seam to flip from one thing to another. Steering brakes, suspension is easy stuff any amateur can tackle, it's just bolting parts together so why pay out for that labour?
     
    matty likes this.
  3. this stage will not cost a lot at all. I have beet quoted $2,000 I'm still doing all the interior like windows locks, electrical, dash. board. some parts that I can do like running the break lines and other small bits I will do.
     
  4. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    $2,000 for labour? You do know that although you think the running gear is in good order there will be a parts bill on top, there always will. Honestly, this is work you should be doing yourself, there are plenty of other things that are skilled to pay for. You need to take off your rose tinted glasses - what you think is a rip off is due to the quoting professionals experience of working on old vehicles where it always ends up costing 5x as much as you hoped... even after you double your estimate to be "safe".
     
    matty and Dean mitropoulos like this.
  5. you think it is better for me to do it my self. I though the steering was hard as I was told. I may as well give it a I know how to do breaks as I do some plumping so know about flaring pies and the bleeding of breaks. the only thing I was not sure about was the wheel alignment when I put in the front beam. I know how the steering works. I would rather do it my self to save the money and I like doing these sort of jobs. I will probably have some questions but when I finish from the spray job I will just ask then.
     
  6. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    So pay for wheel alignment when you're done? You can get it close with string and bits of wood. Fact.
     
    Dean mitropoulos likes this.
  7. yes, you are right it is not that hard at all. I do know how to do it. I worked on it before I pulled it apart. I will do it all my self. I have pulled the engine out many times just for the sake of playing around and looking for leaks. I have got all the rubbers, seals, bushes, bumps stops, hoses and cable. I fell pretty confident in doing it all my self. I have heard of the string method before. I think it is in the Bentley. The Bentley and Haynes is a very good source for information as it shows it as a complete strip down and rebuild in all the stages. I have read it and understand it and get the importance of the torques and the specifications it says to do it in. In your opinion would you be painting it your self or getting a professional to do it. The painting and part of the body work is the only thing I will have to outsource and the pressing of the four ball joints in the arms.
     
  8. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Exactly, get the skilled people to get your awkward front panel aligned and paint it. DIY the rest. It's the best approach that won't lead to you selling at a loss when complete to pay off the loans you took out to fix it up. Unless you're also paying to rent your workshop (I'm assuming you're doing this at home) trying to rush it will cost you $. Just do one thing at a time until you're done. :)
    Oh yeah, and stop taking it to pieces! I didn't even look at my running gear until it was painted, never mind take it all apart and leave it in boxes. Why would you? You can't move it then!
     
    JamesLey and Dean mitropoulos like this.
  9. rstucke

    rstucke Sponsor

    Sorry but you've got a lot to learn and a long way to go.
    Stick with it and give it your best shot
     
    matty, Zed, Tintop75 and 1 other person like this.
  10. Im doing it at home in my garage so no rent. I have not taken any loans as I have been working full time for the past 4 years, many times before whilst at School on weekends and holidays with many tradesmen. I have got enough money to finish it off. there is still no point paying someone to do something I can do. It is like mowing lawn unless you are super rich or cannot do it your self if your old, why pay for it, your just waisting money. I never waste money like this however when I have to spend money on a part I would always buy the best part.
     
  11. Why do you think this. @Zed think it is easy and I do fell confident in doing it. I know others said to get the steering, suspension and breaks done professional but if there is no point why bother then as I'm doing the rest my self. if I'm following the manual wont I be fine?
     
  12. JamesLey

    JamesLey Sponsor

    @Dean mitropoulos stick some more pictures up of what you're working on and how things are going. :thumbsup:
     
    Zed and Dean mitropoulos like this.
  13. I will when I get more work done as it is nothing that major. Just preparing it and doing the small spot to get ready for the metal fabricator to line up the front.
     
    JamesLey likes this.
  14. I need to do a compression test on my motor. I have attached the bell housing and starter motor to the back of the engine. on the starter, I am not sure how to wire the solenoid to get it to push it and turn. mine can do both but can get it do them together.
     
  15. davidoft

    davidoft Sponsor

    how do you have it wired ?
     
  16. I am hesitant to wire it at the moment as I don't want to short out the solenoid. From my understanding I would connect positive to one bolt and negative to the other bold and short out a wire between the two studs to mimic the ignition key. I don’t know as it appears one stud pushes out the starter and the other one turns it.
     

    Attached Files:

  17. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    No!
    Fat +ve on the stud to the left on your picture.
    -ve to the case somewhere, it usually connects via the gearbox/GB earth strap/vehicle body, back to the battery just by being bolted to the bell housing so use a mounting hole or anything convenient on whatever you're using to mount the starter.
    Key signal to the spade - this will kick out the spindle via a lever inside AND connect both studs internally providing current to spin it once it's kicked out and engaged with the flywheel. Which spade? Top one normally, but maybe either - try then, you won't hurt anything.
    The only thing on the RH stud is that braid that disappears into te starter body, no vehicle wiring on that one. so take you horrble wires off before you short something.
     
    Dean mitropoulos likes this.
  18. Thank you that is why I thought I should ask first.
     
  19. yes got it working thank you @Zed
     
    Zed and scrooge95 like this.
  20. Hey Dean - I lived in Sydney (Kurrajong) before moving back to the UK... I had some work done on my Kombi by Mikki at Indian Automotive at Penrith (I know that's a distance from Randwick) but they do everything there and i even sold some parts to them before I returned home as they try to use genuine/original where possible. Really helpful and its a passion for those guys! Not as expensive as some of the well known garages/repair shops up the coast.

    Just an option.

    https://www.indianautomotive.com.au/
    Email: info@indianautomotive.com.au
    Ph: 02 4731 6444
     

Share This Page