I think the put it back to standard reply was to do with a backfire. Not sure a different bearing would cause that…do you? I mean, I’m no mechanic, apparently, but…
Just look at it this way. .the camshaft bearings in your engine with massive endfloat were probably still within spec, because even a single thrust bearing on the camshaft with stock valve springs, outlasts the damage caused by riding the clutch on the main bearing area. Also did I read you were combining different makes of camshaft bearing to obtain a pair ? Maybe use a pair from the same manufacturer as otherwise there will be two high spots where the bearings meet unless they happen to have the same inside diameter.
yes . Generally for high HP builds . Stateside also use double cam trust bearings ( from 2 sets ) on big builds engine builds
No, because there are many other aspects to my life, what with having 3 children and being self employed. I’m in no hurry, as it’s not a vehicle I rely on. It’s a toy.
Yes, I will when I can be arsed. Just got lots of other things going on here at the moment. What with the rubbish weather, I’m scratching around trying to make a living. ‘It ain’t eating any grass’, so to speak.
3 are. And I have a spare follower for later… While you’re here, are the torque settings for the main nuts the same as normal, or would they be tighter, as it’s had an align bore? Forgot to ask before…
Same torque settings for main bolts and case bolts as before. A "line" bore (take note ) won't make any difference.
Dont forget to check .. Wrist pin bushings are straight.. Piston ring gaps. I have a sneaking suspicion one of my AA "assembled in 'merica" piston rings was a bit long.. coupled with a sticky Progressive "Power Valve"... If I had been running nitrous that hole would be straight down the skirt..
You always have to check ring gaps; AA will tell you they are correct and ready to fit but they often aren’t.
Thank you. Yes,always been told to have the ring gaps in a ‘Y’ configuration but not in line with the wrist pin holes
