I'm off to buy the 60mm ish ones from coolair and the rear adjustable spring plates. Any advice or thoughts on the matter? Just before I buy, I thought I would ask. I'm not slamming it. I don't have adjusters on the front either. Will I need new shocks on the front and rear?
Keep front shocks as the fixing point doesn't move. Replace rears with shorter. Cut off most, but not all, of your rear bump stops. At least the lower 2 blobs, but do leave some! Leave the front bump stops (though the wheel will hit the arch first so they're just decoration). Icky tyres on the front due to above. Careful to get high load rating - 95 upwards. Avoid overly square profile tyres or you may have trouble with the "corners" hitting the lower part of the inner arch or even the front outrigger if you're still fairly large size. I'd leave rears full size so you don't mess the gearing up. Replace the rear donuts. Don't buy new front disc backing plates, there is no way of fitting them. That's about it.
Of course the best way forward is simply not to bother. That will save you putting it all back in a year's time and on that subject if the seller is offering a few quid back for your standard spindles, ignore and stash away for when you want them. Same goes for your springplates, mark them up ready.
Alternatively, leave your Bus at stock height, spend no money whatsoever, enjoy a much more comfortable ride, be able to venture where speed humps dwell or into/out of campsites and spend the money on camping/alcohol. No need to thank me.
thanks @zed for the help. and i will keep the old spindles and spring plates, there is no exchange on these. I did look at the transporterhaus ones which are like a flipped version, but i had a read up of one of your comments last night on another thread and it lead me to start mildly. I have to say i need to try the slight lowering for myself, so i can make my own opinion on the matter, and i do appreciate everybody has a different opinion, i will just wait to see what mine is. I dont drink though, so i really have nothing else to spend it on. . . Thanks guys. Plus i already bought them today. . .
Quite right too. Slight isn't too bad, the flipped ones IMO are too low and difficult to live with, but my Late Westy was down about 60-70mm and really you wouldn't have known driving it, but that was done by drilling the dimples, turning the centre parts round and welding them in position. Like adjusters, but no adjusters if you see what I mean. Bump stop arms were removed making it harder to change your mind. The ex used to moan a bit but given the chance she'd moan about anything I did. Maybe the suspension was a tad harder (mild gas shocks) and as it was RHD she got the worst of the bumps but IMO it was no different than before.
@zed any idea how to get this on further? Won't go. I tried to pull it off but the whole torsion bar comes out with the spring plate.
Assume you have the machined donuts which should come with the springplates? Put them on the springplate, looks like you bunged your inner one in the hole?
I'm guessing I have knocked a spline on the spring plate causing a dent or something and so probably ruined them.
I doubt it. Put something behind the springplate as near to the beam as you can jam it in, then bosh the torsion bar with hammer/drift.
I can get it on and off, but it only goes on half way and I have to bang the end of the torsion bar to get it off. @zed
Inspect the splines you're worried you might have damaged? It's a bit hard from here, I only have your pic to go on which doesn't show anything unusual. Q. Does it come to an abrupt hard stop or boingy rubber stopping it?
So, after it gets as far as it will, can you still wobble the whole lot about a bit or is the whole lot solid. If it wobbles I'd guess you may be right about spline damage. If not it's hitting something else?