Advice appreciated, intake valve on number 2 cylinder stuck open

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by Ripcord, Aug 30, 2023.

  1. Sooo ...... decision time. Do I need to
    A) get this head to a company for a refurb.
    B) get a new head for this side
    C) go the whole hog and buy a top end rebuild kit with 2'new heads and barrels etc
    Any views appreciated
     
  2. Hi Zed,
    I was wondering about the oil in the barrel but I did spin it on the stand so could have been that.
    I did check valve clearences before our trip and adjusted again just after we hit that 46 Degrees in Italy. Then when we got back and I was tinkering due to the lumpy running, I checked again and did find one too tight.
     
    Zed likes this.
  3. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    I wouldn't want a new seat in a cracked head and I very much doubt you'd find anyone willing to do it.
    Get the barrels honed, new rings, one new matching head with the same valves sizes and same combustion cc.
    That's assuming the barrels/pistons check out ok when you inspect them.
     
    Ripcord likes this.
  4. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    ...or go mad with your wallet and replace the whole top end.
    Me, I'd also replace the big end shells as you can do it without splitting the case so why not. :)
     
    Soggz and Ripcord like this.
  5. Ah, OK. So that makes the decision easier then. So I'm leaning towards a complete top end rebuild kit just to make sure. And I'll definitely look at replacing the big end shells ... would rather spend a bit more and do it once rather than try to scrimp and end up having to do it again a short time later :thumbsup:
     
    Soggz, paulcalf and Zed like this.
  6. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    At least you'll know the heads match and the guides won't be worn. :thumbsup:
    Big end shells are cheap and once you realise it's nigh on impossible to loose anything in the case, it doesn't take long either.
    What you WILL need to do is take your time, measure the deck height with the new B&P, cc the new heads and work out the compression ratio using an on line calculator. adjustments may need to be made.
     
    Ripcord and snotty like this.
  7. ...and check your ring gaps. Unlikely to be correct of the box.
     
    Ripcord likes this.
  8. DOH!!! .. .....Just when you start to think this stuff is easy :eek:........ it all starts to sound complicated again.
    I'm up for it tho. Can't get on it again till Wednesday next week but, in the meantime, I think I've got several hours ont tinterweb to get my parts on order and then get everything I'm keeping cleaned up.
    I will definitely need some advice on setting everything up:thumbsup:
     
  9. I've got a few interim dumb questions while I'm ordering parts ......
    PXL_20230908_111237450.jpg

    How do you know your oil cooler is working ok? Mine looks in decent nick and doesn't seem to be leaking?
     
    paulcalf likes this.
  10. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Looks good to me.
    My new engine new cooler leaked and I had to replace it. Better the devil you know.
     
    paulcalf, Ripcord and snotty like this.
  11. If there are no signs of leaks, likely ok. If you've got a parts cleaner with a pump (or if you can lash something up), worth pumping the cleaner/degreaser of your choice through it. Surprising the muck that may come out.
     
    Soggz and Ripcord like this.
  12. Do it properly and split case and replace main bearings .
     
    orangefeeling and Soggz like this.
  13. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Oh how a small job can turn into a full rebuild!
    But yeah, either do the minimum or the max I guess. Next up - does the cam need replacing?
     
    Soggz likes this.
  14. :shock:
     
  15. My advice would be to keep it simple ...
    Two new heads , check the barrels and pistons and if they're all good use 'em maybe a new set of rings as a treat but leave the bottom end alone if you're happy with it .
    Mission creep and listening to every opinion on here isn't a good thing - keep it simple

    Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
     
  16. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    I'd be even more simple - one head, leave the rest, it was happy around Europe for a 6,000 mile trip in extreme heat until that seat fell out.
    Doing too much we get to the real possibility of the worn big ends were holding up ok but the increased power from the new tight top end finishes them off.
    Me, as you know, I like more capacity so if the plan is to split the case and replace the entire top end I'd be making it into a 1776 without thinking about it.
    IMHO anything in between is asking for trouble.
     
    Last edited: Sep 9, 2023
  17. I'm keen on keeping it pretty much stock and as simple as I can but Heritage do a 1641cc top end rebuild kit for the same price as a 1600. What are your views on this option?
     
  18. To be fair everyone else’s opinion is just as valid as yours . If the OP keeps asking he’s gonna keep getting .. some people are more thorough and some will just bash it back bare minimum. Doesn’t mean their opinion is any less valid
     
  19. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    ...and some people (you and I) enjoy this stuff while others just want to go camping in their cool bus. :cool:
     
  20. Marty SmartyCat

    Marty SmartyCat Supporter

    Having just gone through a top end rebuild on my type 4 engine, best advice I can offer is to create a detailed shopping list and check that all the parts you need are available before you do anything. I fell foul of barrel shims which @MR SAM HODSON ended up getting for me from Germany (he was passing through).

    Good luck :thumbsup:
     
    Soggz, paulcalf, Chrisd and 1 other person like this.

Share This Page