Morning guys n girls. Is there any links on here for fitting a hot start relay? Can't believe it's not been covered in any of my old magazines! Cheers
http://thelatebay.com/index.php?wiki/hot-start-relay/ http://thelatebay.com/index.php?threads/how-to-hot-start-relay.358/
Can anyone tell me if this mod will effect the 12v to the coil and choke? My van does start when it's hot but I reckon the voltage is low at the coil.
I very much doubt it. If you have an electric fuel pump running off the coil i will though. Hot start relay is for when you turn the key and nothing happens at all and won't affect whether it fires or not.
Try sorting what you have hot start relays will just delay you having to replace the starter / cable ends The hot start relays can course its own proplems
Thanks guys. Years ago I replaced the cable from the starter to the ignition switch and it's never failed to start since. I'm guessing you can have the same issue with the feed to the coil thou? Voltage drop between battery, fuses and back to the coil? If I start the van everyday it jumps into life. If it doesn't move for a couple of weeks I have to wind it over. If I charge the battery, it's on charge for 30secs and then reads full. But then jumps into life. To me it's as if the coil and choke are lazy!!
Switching to pedant mode: All the cabling that VW did originally is just right for the job intended...no more-no less...think how much it'd cost to over spec a cable, and then multiply that by however many buses they've made...it'd run into millions...for one cable! The issues are due to increasing resistance as the cables age, corrosion on terminals and loose connections, which we're all pretty familiar with. I read somewhere that electrons flow best on the 'skin' of a conductor. As corrosion is most likely on the outer skins of a stranded cable, electrons are forced to flow through the middle, causing more heat, which in turn increases resistance... I think the best upgrade (apart from an alternator rewind) is to fit a new loom, more earths, and make sure terminals are spotless... It's a big job breaking out but one that would prevent a shed load of issues for years to come
Buses vary hugely when it comes to the state of the wiring. Personally the only problems I've had while owning 5 buses over 20 years are when the OG spade terminals break. I do understand others have more problems, but I wouldn't say it's not the norm. I'd rarely recommend replacing the entire loom unless someone accidentally cut through it with a grinder - that kind of steers the descision. It's quite a job.
Im guessing.. that wear and tear at the ignition switch will probably add to starting problems too.. so the relay is a cure to other problems...
If not turning over my experience is that the starter motor/solenoid is the course then the connectors that attache to the starter then the connectors on the switch fitting the relay may get get you a bit more life out of the starter but you will end up changing it Its a good idea to change cable end on the coil feed first but your problem sound more fuel dranin back issue if its not starting when parked up for some time
I wondered about fuel drain back but 1. It seems to fix it if I boost the battery and 2. The fuel lines and filter I've changed loads of times so why should it be different now! I'll check the spade connectors and replace some for nice shiny new ones!
Apologies for the thread jack, but it is kind of relevant I fitted a hot start relay a couple of years ago. Now it has just packed up, the van would not start or even attempt to fire up, in other words the exact same symptoms as before i fitted the hot start relay. I have gone through all of the fault finding, I took the relay out of the equation and the van started. So it has to be the relay. Obviously there must be an underlaying fault to cause it to pack up after just two years. Could any of the TLB jedis give me some advise as to some reasons or faults to cause this. The starter is refurb'd and working well, newish ignition switch, 1600 TP engine. Coil checks out fine Thanks in advance
The relay is a switch which bypasses the low current carrying wires of the ignition circuit & brings the high amps of the battery directly into the starter motor. Resistance builds up in the ignition wires, they carry low current, have to travel the length of the bus & are often over 30 years old. The relay gives a helping boost. My cynical mind suggests that, as with most things these days, quality is engineered out of these relays & they just give up. Stick in a new one & carry a spare! Has anyone else noticed that most things fail just after the guarantee runs out? I reckon manufacturers put in timer chips so we have to buy more. Consumer hamsters on wheels we are.
im not sure what relays you are using, but you need something old school like something off of an old yank car ...
Am I right in thinking the starter solenoid(1979 Bay 1600) takes a bit more current than this, maybe 35 Amps???
