Fuel tank pin holes... Weld or seal?

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by D5andy, Oct 9, 2013.

  1. After another round of brick acid and prep'n'ready I found a pin hole :eek:

    The tank sealer instructions say just use some gaffa tape to block the holes to prevent the sealer leaking.
    I guess the sealer is enough to keep the petrol inthe tank - has anyone just done that?

    But should I try a dab of weld to fill the hole or am I likely to make it worse....?
     
  2. i`d be temped to splash the cash and get a rust free import tank
     
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  3. If you weld it might make it worse....


    It is extremely hard to do it first time ,you should have seen the size of the blob when I finished..
     
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  4. Solder would be a better bet.
     
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  5. This^^ Tinned and soldered is the best way... I would also use the tank sealer, as long as it is approved for fuel containing ethanol!! :thumbsup:
     
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  6. Look at diddymens thread as he soldered his tank I think
     
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  7. yup ...solder it up:thumbsup:
    dish the area around the hole,
    put a screw or a nail head in the hole ,
    put some flux on it,,
    heat and melt some solder into the hole,

    i did one where someone had put a screw through the tank while fitting a r&r bed,
     
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  8. Ahh yes I found that diddymen post - excellent stuff

    Edit: Can I do it with a soldering iron though - silly buts it's all I have ....

    Yep it's the por-15 stuff, ethanol proof
     
  9. What tank sealer have you got? I did mine with POR15 and the instructions said it seals pin holes
     
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  10. Damage is different if its got pin holes and a bit thin for me i`d rather just replace
     
  11. Yep that's the stuff

    It's just the one pin hole (so far) the tank seems pretty good nick apart from that - especially after the amount of acid cleaning it's been subjected to.. I don't really want to scrap it just yet ;)
     
  12. Edit: Can I do it with a soldering iron though - silly buts it's all I have ....



    Depends on how powerful your iron is. The metal of the tank will soak up the heat, so you might not get it hot enough. A gas torch is better.
     
  13. This^^ you'll need a gas blow torch, some tinning paste, and some bits of lead, as you're wanting to do a lead solder repair, and not an electrical solder repair :thumbsup:

    Tinning paste
    http://www.frost.co.uk/automotive-fillers-tools/solder-paste.html

    And you can just use some offcuts of roofing lead!! (cheaper that frost)
     
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  14. Thanks for the good advice all :)

    I opted in the end for a quick splodge of weld as it's what was to hand..
    [​IMG]
    There's the hole

    [​IMG]
    A blob

    Dressed-
    [​IMG]

    Cheers
     
  15. cool air doing new tanks for £290.
     
  16. So far I reckon I spent about
    £20 on brick acid
    £20 on marine clean (used half)
    £30 on prep'n'ready (used half)
    £30 on tank sealer

    A couple of hours of filling and tipping...

    Going to wire brush the exterior and slap some epoxy mastic on should be good then for another 40years :D

    But the replacement tank I guess is worry free ;)
     

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