Ignition switch

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by Molteni Mike, Sep 6, 2017.

  1. :thinking::thinking::thinking: Per the opening post "the heavily drained battery was initially charging at over 20 Amps, and after 15 miles only dropped to 11 Amps"

    I think it would take a very long drive to fully charge the battery and see a zero charge rate. After a heavy use it always seems to initially charge at quite a high current then quickly reduce.

    The camper is presently sitting on the drive with it's usual smart charger connected via an otherwise unused towbar connector. . This method of charging is very slow but I gather is the "kindest" way charge a battery.

    Just waiting now for the (slightly overpriced) ignition switch to arrive.
     
    Ozziedog likes this.
  2. About 45% overpriced.;)
     
    paradox and snotty like this.
  3. Just rub it in why don't you! :p
     
    snotty and 77 Westy like this.
  4. Even worse, the Amazon one comes with a free holiday for two in Barbados :thumbsup:
     
    77 Westy and Molteni Mike like this.
  5. What a long job, but fimally had the new switch installed this afternoon.

    Using a hammer to dismantle the old switch for inspection showed possibly dirty contacts?? I'm guessing the central contact (left of picture) is the supply, distributed across the other contacts as the key is turned.

    Now need several test drives to be sure this "intermittent" problem has been solved :thinking:
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Sep 10, 2017
  6. could also be a bad connection at the fusebox, had one the other day as not starting { breakdown mechanic} , found loose connection at back of fusebox , losing feed to coil, it doesnt run through a fuse but it connects to the back of the fusebox
     
    Molteni Mike likes this.
  7. Thanks, will do this.
    Seems that for a 1979 Bay, power from the battery connects to the ignition switch via a terminal linking fuse 8 and fuse 9. From the switch it then goes to the coil via a terminal linking fuse 11 and fuse 12
     
    Last edited: Sep 11, 2017
  8. when i replaced my switch for a febi one i added two terminals to my wiring block to connect onto the two small terminals
    on the new switch.These weren't present on the original switch (RHD panel van conversion).
    I now have a live output only when the ignition is off,(alarm feed etc), and the other one is live until you fully remove the ignition key .
    (wired to the radio)
    Well worth doing if you change your switch o_O
    cheers
     
    Molteni Mike likes this.
  9. Ha! I bought one of the Para/Febi ones, as I've started hoarding parts in case the supply of good stuff dries up.

    I was hoping they'd have such a contact ("key in the ignition" would be best) - very useful. I'll have to investigate. My life is complete :).
     
    mcswiggs and paradox like this.
  10. I think the extra contacts are for seat belt warning on USA bus's but are very useful.
    Now i can have the radio on with the ignition off but it will turn off as soon as you remove the key
    :thumbsup:
     
    paradox and snotty like this.
  11. This type of ignition switch was used in all types of VAG up until about 2003. T4, seat arosa, polo golf etc etc. So the extra contacts were actually for newer version. No seatbelt warning in American buses

    Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
     
  12. Was delighted to find that the Febi switch does have the auxiliary contacts, as @just-paul says. Might swap mine over when I next have the column in bits.

    I'm so sad, I buzzed the contacts through:
    30 - +12V supply from battery
    50 - start position feed to starter solenoid
    15 - ignition position, +12V feed maintained in start position
    X - ignition position, +12V feed removed when starting (turns off unnecessary stuff when cranking)
    S - provides +12V supply as long as key is in lock. Used for the irritating US-spec bus buzzer when door is opened with key in ignition. Could be used to power your radio (ignition off, key in), but quite a slim contact - might need to drive a relay with it if you've got heavy-duty audio.
    P - provides +12V if ignition's off and key is out. Believe this is used to drive the parking light function using the indicator stalk on other vehicles.

    Discovered that the "turn the ignition off before having another go at starting" function is provided by the switch itself. Learn something every day...
     
    Last edited: Sep 15, 2017
    Valveandy and paradox like this.

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